Thanks. You're right, it's an 8" minimum.

When exploring tire sizes I was looking at those charts and must have misread it for the 245/40/17 size. That or I mixed them up in my head...I was looking at a lot of options that day.

Hey guys,
Just picked up a 2020 BRZ and wanting to change the wheels.
Car is currently completely stock but plan on lowering it a little
Will 18x8.5 +44 fit fairly flush?
Want to get some SSR GTV01s on some 245/35r18s

Yes that'll work well with 6-8mm front spacers and camber bolts up front.

Well, yes and no. Welcome to street class autocross rules where all the fast cars run 245's on a 7.5" because the rules state you can run any size tire, but have to keep the stock width. Is it logical for non-autocross applications? Not really. But he states it's specifically for autocross.

I can confirm 225's on the same 7.5" on an autocross course are noticeably slower.

See above. It depends how serious you are about autocross. Just know that to run the 245's in front on the stock suspension, you'll need extended studs and a spacer. Rears you keep inboard as normal as there's plenty of inner room.

225/45/17 is the easy button and fits 100% even with the stock +48 offset. I ran a 3mm spacer on mine, but it wasn't necessary... so I had an effective +45 offset.

It depends where you are with autocross. Given you're running the RT660's, you're probably not up at the top. RE71RS are the top street tire now-adays. I had the RT660's and for an autocross tire, I kinda hated them. By about run 100, they were more or less dead in terms of heat cycles and grip, yet they had plenty of tread. I ran them out to 230 runs, but the last 100 runs were dreadful. Between RE-11A's, RE-71R's, Hankook RS3's's, and A052's, out of all of them, I wanted the RT660's off the car the most.

I had a buddy toss them on as street tires even after that as they still had tread and he had to run them at an event on his Civic in a pinch. Couldn't put the power down at all and was all over the place. He came over and said they were absolutely the worst worn tires he's ever driven on in about 5+ years of autox.

Given that, I really like either the RE-17RS or Yokohama A052. I've had two sets of Yoks and both lasted 160 runs plus about 4-5k street miles. A lot of people aren't doing 25+ event seasons, so 160 might be two full seasons of 12+ runs for a normal human being :lol:
Just my 2 cents on autocross tires.

Since I'm running a +45 wheel, I'll be able to fit 245's without the spacers, correct?


Interesting. I'm about mid-pack in pax overall, mid-pack overall in raw time, and usually in the top 1/3 in class. I'm not setting the world on fire, but have made significant personal improvement last season as I got more familiar with the car and started using a 220TW tire.

I usually run about 8~10 events a season so 50~60 runs a year plus the 45min drive to/from the event location. Since I was buying a full wheel/tire package I went with the 660's to keep the overall package costs down, and honestly have been pretty happy with them. When they need to be replaced I'll likely move upmarket to the Yoke's or Bridgestone's.

So I'm getting ready to lower and put wheels and tires on my 2013 frs. It will mostly be daily driven with some canyon drives and hopefully some track days.

So far I have purchased fortune auto 500 coilovers 6k/7k with swift springs, volk te37sl 18x9.5 +40. I plan to lower the car at least 1inch, but no more then 2. Looking to not rub and be as "meaty" as possible without removing any fender liners or roll/pull fenders. Definately don't want to stretch the tire.

Right now I'm stuck on what tire size to go with, I have been doing research and it seems like 255 or 245 35/18 is the way to go. Ideally id like 40 sidewall but idk if that possible. Im confused on width because some people say 245 is stretched and some say its ok, ive seen some saying 255 is close to stretched. I'm pretty new to all this so trying to make sure it will look good but most of all be functional and not cause any issues. If I could hear some of your opinions that would be great. Also would I need any sort of lcas or anything else to get the fitment and alignment dialed in?