Care to give a review of the v730's? I have heard they are kinda inbetween an RS4 and super 200.

I was really happy last year with the V730''s on my '17 BRZ, plenty of grip, even 30 minutes into a session. Did not particularly excel in any performance metrics, think of it as being good at everything though, a Goldilocks of performance tires. Would cycle out in a predictive manner, the car would start feeling a bit looser and those were fun sessions too. However, once I tried the V730 on my '22 BRZ, I felt like they were not as grippy as I remembered. The first set I ran 225's on OEM rims so I chalked it to running a narrower tire. The second set was 255's, a little bit more grip than the 225's but nothing mind blowing. I will be running something stickier next season, most likely the new RE71 compound or the Eagle F1 Supercar 3.

As for other contenders, I ran Falken RT660's on my '01 Boxster and was not impressed and Yoko A052's are just too expensive and I do not see a good value vs lap time. I really need a tire trailer and slicks.

I transitioned over from v730 to supercar 3r. A lot more grip (2ish seconds for my local tracks) but they seem to wear twice as fast. Best place to buy them is on goodyear.com, when on sale, it's $750 installed for a set of 245/17/40. Prod date on the ones I bought is mid 2021.

Cool build. I also wrapped my ball joints in front when I installed Brembo BM4 fronts and GT backs. I'm not baller enough for Radi-cals ;) The rear heat shield was a pain to remove the first one, since I didn't realize they were welded. The second one went much faster with a big hammer to identify the weld spots, and a chisel to knock them out, and a little grinding and paint to make it look reasonable.



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Ordered both the RE-71RS and the Eagle F1 Supercar 3, both heat cycled. The latter are on back order until mid-April so will be using the 71s first.

Did you end up swapping the MCA traction mod from your 1st gen over? Worth doing on Gen2?

Yes, I did. I am at a similar ride height to my 2017 so why not. :)

BRZ sat from Nov 29th to Feb 12th on a battery tender. Went to the FIRM for a rally school on the 12th, changed the oil upon return at 6,469 miles (2,866 mile interval) in preparation for Road Atlanta next weekend.

First HPDE weekend this year at Road Atlanta. The theme of this year is driver development and I am planning to get some pro coaching days sprinkled in.

Kicked off the winter rust on Saturday and got coached by pro driver Patrick Wilmot on Sunday. Did four 12-15 minute sessions almost back to back, after each session would adjust tire pressures and soften the rear coilovers a bit based on Patrick's feedback (3 clicks total). Re: racing line, worked on entry into turn 2 and adjusted entry into turn 5 a little bit and that was it. Re: driving technique, worked almost exclusively on easy brake release and trail braking.

Had Patrick drive my car and then I did another 15-minute session. At this point, "his weight in the car was slowing me down" and there was nothing else to work on. Felt pretty good about my driving hearing that comment. :) We will do another coaching session in the future, this time with data, to get that last second... Ordered Ansix Auto's CAN bus harness.

Misc:

Patrick agreed this is probably the worst pedal set up for heel-toeing he had seen in a car... My narrow foot just slips in between... Ordered an SRP gas pedal.

There were two GR cup cars registered, on Saturday they were running 1:34 laps. :)

Drove a 720-whp 991.1 Turbo for a few laps, got only one clean lap, 1:34.xx, lol. Brakes were no good, with good brakes a 1:31 should be easy peasy. All I have to say is working on fast laps in the BRZ is more satisfying....

SRP gas pedal installed.

Ever driven a Mk7/7.5 Golf R? Lol. It's pretty bad.

Another oil analysis, this is the first one when I am on 5w40 oil.

Had a great weekend at Roebling Road with Just Track It. This was my first time there and first time with that group. Managed a 1:22.96 with a passenger, last session on Sunday, mid-80's weather. The SRP gas pedal worked great for heel and toe.

Does that screw straight into your gas pedal? How do you like it? I installed the Cusco one. I like it but it raises the pedal which takes some getting used to. At threshold braking the brake pedal and gas are the same level.

You remove the stock gas pedal cover first and then screw the SRP cover into the gas pedal. The stock cover is very thin so the SRP one raises the pedal a little bit but not as much as the Cusco one. No complaints after the weekend, my foot no longer falls between the brake and gas pedals. :)

Roebling is hard on the driver front tire, that's the most tire boogers I have even seen on a wheel.

Checked the inside of the rotors too and they caught lots of rubber there, covering the vanes. I do not run backing plates so not sure if folks running backing plates would have the same problem.

Oof, I should check my rotors.

damn thats more rubber than I have ever seen

Went to Barber a couple months ago, did 4 sessions on Saturday, parked the car and later on when it was time to leave I heard a terrible screeching sound coming from the passenger rear side, 4 out of 5 lug nuts were finger tight...:confused0068: Tightened the lug nuts but did not drive Sunday, drove back home and the wheel and wheel studs were done. Took almost two months to source a replacement wheel from Japan and we are back in business.

Adjusted ride height on each corner and got another alignment. Based on tire temps, went to -4.8 camber on driver front and reduced the camber a tad in the rear.

Replaced the tired lug nuts with new ones.

Was the lug holes on the wheel damaged from running loose lugs? That is some scary stuff.

Yes, that's what happens when an aluminum wheel vibrates against steel wheel studs and lug nuts. :D

Installed the APR 61" GTC-300 wing and front air dam.

Another oil analysis report.

Thanks for posting your UOA. Are you comfortable with the iron/copper reading? What weight/brand oil was used? How many track sessions within the 2000 miles? Thanks

Motul 300V 5w40, I always change oil after 6 track days. Not concerned with iron or copper levels. Compared to the last 3 reports from my 2017 BRZ, Motul 300V 5w30, engine rebuilt to OEM specs:

cumulative miles: 2450, 4266, 6106
iron: 8, 12, 7
copper: 5, 4, 2

Iron seems to be ok, copper a bit high but it has been trending down.

Some updates on aero...

Went to Road Atlanta, definitely more grip in corners. Most noticeable differences in turn 1 where I was carrying extra 3-4 mph, entering the esses where I could go flat out at the top of the hill instead of waiting a split second for the car to settle, and in turn 12 where I think I should be able to go flat out in 4th once I get used to the aero. Did a 1:42.33 (Harry's Lap Timer) compared to previous 1:44's.

6th session of the day got cut short due to a flat on the back straight; the driver front tire got cut on the inside sidewall. There is paint missing from the coilover spring so the tire must have touched the spring. Not sure though if the tire touched after it got flat and mushroomed on the inside or it was touching here and there and it took 6 sessions to weaken the sidewall.

Before heading to Barber, changed the setup a little bit to hopefully avoid cutting the tire again.

Put stiffer springs in; moved the 7" 650 lbs springs from the rear to the front and got 6" 700 lbs springs for the rear with #171 tender springs from Vorshlag. Also raised the car about 0.5" just in case.

Did a 1:44.31 at Barber (compared to previous 1:46's) and the driver front tire got damaged on the inside again, this time in a more dramatic fashion (but still held pressure!). At this point, I believe extra g's from the aero must be stretching the tire sideways enough to contact the spring. Ordered 25mm spacers to replace the 20mm I have now and hopefully the problem will be solved.

To add insult to injury, had a small off into the grass and damaged the splitter. I knew the splitter would get damaged at some point, just hoped it would last more than 2 hpde's. :D Time to build a custom splitter, one that does not require removing the front bumper.

Whoa, that tire looks wild. Glad it didn't fail on you near Mr. Barry R.

Any reason you're not using a front helper spring? Not saying it's causing your tire destruction issues, but your upper spring perch is getting mucked up and just makes me a little nervous.

- Andrew

Yes, should probably use a helper spring in front too although I have been running like that for the last 6 years with zero problems. It is always the rear that made a big clunk noise as the springs settled so at least that is fixed.

Put the car on "platforms" made of 6"x6" lumber and crawled under the car to see how much space there is between the tire and the coilover spring. On the passenger side I can easily slide the fattest hex bit through so let's say 10mm of space, on the affected driver side I need to squeeze the same bit through so let's say 9.5mm of space. I doubt the tire can stretch that much toward the spring but who knows? I got 25mm spacers just in case and will put them on to test.

Went to a tire shop and got two new tires installed, they looked at the destroyed sidewall and said because there is no evidence of the tire rubbing against the spring (no shiny circle like in the previous case) it is highly unlikely the tire rubbed against the spring. We both wondered if the sidewall cannot simply take the abuse with the added aero. One thought is to run more psi hot, I am usually at 28-29 hot so maybe stay at 32 or so and see if that makes a difference. Perhaps the sidewall compresses and uncompresses too much and gives out?

Pulled the front bumper to remove the splitter and installed M6 pre-bulbed plus nuts so in the future I can simply bolt and unbolt the splitter from under the car. Broke the install tool on the second plus nut and rigged my own install tool from a half-rusted bolt, a nut, and a washer. Lowered the car back to about 5" front, 5.25" rear. Going for another alignment Thursday, will run less camber in front and see if the driver front tire fares better this way.

Also, got enough supplies for the next 4 oil changes.

Dropped the camber in front and the driver front tire survived one day at Road Atlanta. :) Hopefully this fixes the problem, if not, will reduce the camber a tad more. Now onto building a custom splitter. :)

Lost 4th gear at Barber, upshifted 3-4 and heard a big crunch. Was able to drive back home to Atlanta but the transmission sounded like a concrete mixer the whole way. A replacement is here, just waiting for an aftermarket clutch to arrive.

The driver front inside sidewall survived with less camber, will need to add back .1-.2 camber though as tire temps were like 198-198-203 (inside-mid-outside) at 28 psi hot.

Ouch. How many days/events on it?

16 HPDE weekends, 9,300 miles, probably around 3,000 miles of which were on the track.

What is your transmission fluid maintenance schedule like?

Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk

Damn. Are you planning on opening it up? Curious if the circlip went missing like the first gen boxes do.