Went to Barber a couple months ago, did 4 sessions on Saturday, parked the car and later on when it was time to leave I heard a terrible screeching sound coming from the passenger rear side, 4 out of 5 lug nuts were finger tight...:confused0068: Tightened the lug nuts but did not drive Sunday, drove back home and the wheel and wheel studs were done. Took almost two months to source a replacement wheel from Japan and we are back in business.

Adjusted ride height on each corner and got another alignment. Based on tire temps, went to -4.8 camber on driver front and reduced the camber a tad in the rear.

Replaced the tired lug nuts with new ones.

Was the lug holes on the wheel damaged from running loose lugs? That is some scary stuff.

Yes, that's what happens when an aluminum wheel vibrates against steel wheel studs and lug nuts. :D

Installed the APR 61" GTC-300 wing and front air dam.

Another oil analysis report.

Thanks for posting your UOA. Are you comfortable with the iron/copper reading? What weight/brand oil was used? How many track sessions within the 2000 miles? Thanks

Motul 300V 5w40, I always change oil after 6 track days. Not concerned with iron or copper levels. Compared to the last 3 reports from my 2017 BRZ, Motul 300V 5w30, engine rebuilt to OEM specs:

cumulative miles: 2450, 4266, 6106
iron: 8, 12, 7
copper: 5, 4, 2

Iron seems to be ok, copper a bit high but it has been trending down.

Some updates on aero...

Went to Road Atlanta, definitely more grip in corners. Most noticeable differences in turn 1 where I was carrying extra 3-4 mph, entering the esses where I could go flat out at the top of the hill instead of waiting a split second for the car to settle, and in turn 12 where I think I should be able to go flat out in 4th once I get used to the aero. Did a 1:42.33 (Harry's Lap Timer) compared to previous 1:44's.

6th session of the day got cut short due to a flat on the back straight; the driver front tire got cut on the inside sidewall. There is paint missing from the coilover spring so the tire must have touched the spring. Not sure though if the tire touched after it got flat and mushroomed on the inside or it was touching here and there and it took 6 sessions to weaken the sidewall.

Before heading to Barber, changed the setup a little bit to hopefully avoid cutting the tire again.

Put stiffer springs in; moved the 7" 650 lbs springs from the rear to the front and got 6" 700 lbs springs for the rear with #171 tender springs from Vorshlag. Also raised the car about 0.5" just in case.

Did a 1:44.31 at Barber (compared to previous 1:46's) and the driver front tire got damaged on the inside again, this time in a more dramatic fashion (but still held pressure!). At this point, I believe extra g's from the aero must be stretching the tire sideways enough to contact the spring. Ordered 25mm spacers to replace the 20mm I have now and hopefully the problem will be solved.

To add insult to injury, had a small off into the grass and damaged the splitter. I knew the splitter would get damaged at some point, just hoped it would last more than 2 hpde's. :D Time to build a custom splitter, one that does not require removing the front bumper.

Whoa, that tire looks wild. Glad it didn't fail on you near Mr. Barry R.

Any reason you're not using a front helper spring? Not saying it's causing your tire destruction issues, but your upper spring perch is getting mucked up and just makes me a little nervous.

- Andrew

Yes, should probably use a helper spring in front too although I have been running like that for the last 6 years with zero problems. It is always the rear that made a big clunk noise as the springs settled so at least that is fixed.