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Oil cooler / Racing
Wondering if anyone is running an aftermarket oil cooler, I live in South FL and do a lot of track days. Spoke with Jackson Racing today they said they are in the process of developing one but it will take some time.
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I'm ordering one this week.
https://colorfittings.com/product/20...il-cooler-kit/ Install video of it with 50$ off code: https://youtu.be/4qK6LNTvjkU It's a mocal thermostatic plate with the thermostat set to 180F, a seatrab cooler, and mounting plates that attatch to the rad support instead of the lower plastics. Hard to screw it up imo. Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk |
Question is is it needed? And for those that live in cold climates, what is the drawback?
I see the OP is in Florida, so probably not a concern, but as an example, SavageGeese ended up disconnecting it in the winter, as even with the thermostatic plate, it took forever in the winter for oil temps to come up to operating temps.. Also remember that there is now a fair amount of oil that is not removed during a normal oil change.. In the OP's case, living in a warm climate year round and tracking frequently, it is probably worth it. Just saying in general, ymmv depending upon your location and whether you really run the car hard for extended periods of time (tracking) and often.. |
That color fittings cooler looks like a nice piece of kit.
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I want to know how well the bumper gets back on….I really don’t want a repeat of gen1
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My Color Fittings cooler is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Much excite!
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Anyone have any information on how the new stock oil cooler performs? Gen1 didn't come with one, but Gen2 does ( though it may not be hardcore). It may be enough for most.
https://jalopnik.com/the-2022-subaru...law-1848090009 |
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Like gen1 ( people that installed the forester one) it doesnt do much from the data i've seen so far. |
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Main drawback is more complexity. More places to leak or fail. Perhaps longer warmup times depending on thermostat temp. It is probably needed for driving that is more than just autocross runs regardless of outside temp. I think vendors ship these with the wrong temp thermostat. Which is why some people have issues with warmup. 180F thermostats bypass fully at 180, and usually start to let oil through around 170 or sometimes even lower. This problem can compound if the vendor uses cheaper thermostat suppliers where accuracy is compromised or they can even leak the wax inside. https://racerxfabrication.com/blog/oil-cooler-kit I've got a 205F in my Fc3s, had a 200F in my Mishimoto in my Gen1 Brz, and will do the same in the '22 Anecdotal Experience: Here in WNC I could get my 1st gen and my current 2nd gen to heat their oil quickly in just a few minutes of uphill spirited driving with all season tires in 45-50F ambient temp. Warmer temps I saw 270+ in my first gen according to the scan gauge before adding the oil cooler. This winter I have pushed the 2nd gen gauge almost 1/2 way up. I'm fairly sure that this is the correct partnumber for the replacement thermostat in the colorworks kit. It includes washers/springs/gasket for the thermostat replacement in the sandwich filter. M-OTSP1-SK 92 Also. This Colorworks one mounts to the rad support. Unlike half of the 1st gen kits which mount to the undertray. |
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Thermostatic valves do not close completely. This is done by design, so the oiling system can never be thermally shocked. So, on a streetcar cruising down the highway, even though the thermostat is not open, you can very easily overcool the oil. Thrashing on some local curvy roads on a 50° day you can do the same thing. Being outside of the oil's optimum temperature range is bad, too hot or cold. With EJs, we always recommend running the highest thermostat you can get. That's typically in the 210-220° range. Not only will this reduce the probability of overcooling under some conditions, but it will also make the oil cooler more efficient when it's hot because of the higher delta from ambient to oil temp. Which means more precise oil temps; lower swings in peak temps. The BRZ FA24 seems to run a bit hotter than the FA WRX, but not by a lot. The factory gauge is not precise at all, so we're stuck until after break-in when we can put it on the dyno and start load testing to know exactly what going on. |
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I presume you can still read the oil temp via OBD-II? Also just in case you missed it, the gauge cluster of the GR86 does show the oil temp as a number. |
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