The 0W-20 Oil Change Hustle & DIY vs carfax documentation
 

I was contemplating the dilemma of changing my oil vs having it serviced for carfax documentation. I don't trust service places or dealerships. I don't want the dealership touching my car ever again.

Then there's the pressure to use watery thin 0W-20, knowing that it's a bad choice for my use case. I RTFMed the issue:


From 2022 BRZ Owners Manual

p 381
In choosing an oil, you want the proper quality and viscosity, as well as one that will enhance fuel economy. Oils of lower viscosity provide better fuel economy. However, in hot weather, oil of higher viscosity is required to properly lubricate the engine. The following table lists the recommended viscosities and applicable temperatures.

p. 382
Specifications
 When adding oil, different brands may be used together as long as they are the same API classification and SAE viscosity
as those recommended by SUBARU.

0W-20 synthetic oil is the required oil for optimum engine performance and protection. Conventional oil may be used if synthetic oil is unavailable.

*: If 0W-20 synthetic oil is not available, 5W-30 conventional oil may be used if you need to add oil.
However, you should change to 0W-20 synthetic oil at the next oil change.
--

This is very ambiguous legal speak to pressure the use of 0W-20. 0W-20 is a cold climate oil.

Notice the use of the words "required" and "should." It doesn't say "0W-20 synthetic oil is the required oil-PERIOD. It says "...required oil for optimum engine performance and protection." i.e. gas mileage and cold winter protection.

On page 381: "However, in hot weather, oil of higher viscosity is required to properly lubricate the engine. The following table lists the recommended viscosities and applicable temperatures." Notice, in the table, the only other viscosity mentioned is conventional 5W-30. BUT only if you are adding oil, not changing it; then "should" go back to 0W-20 at next oil change. It then shows a temperature graph only applicable to 0W-20.

The phrase "required oil for optimum engine performance and protection" provides a loophole where the higher viscosity stated (5W-30) may be used, although less than "optimum."

So what I deduce from the ambiguous legal speak in the owners manual is this. I can use 5W-30 if I want to, all year long; since I don't live in the Northern US, Canada, or the North Pole. HA!

I imagine the watery thin oil reduces engine life increasing vehicle sales and service.

I gravitate toward higher viscosities.

I suppose it's a bit of a gamble. If engine warranty work is needed, they may refuse. However the chance of engine failure is small, considering the care in which I take of my vehicles. My feeling is that the 5W-30 will result in longer engine life.

This was my conclusion as well, and echos the same from the 1st gen cars.

Anecdotal data: Used oil analysis on my 2013 BRZ showed twice the Aluminum and Iron wear on the Toyota 0W-20 than on Castrol 0W-30. Double.

I put some Castrol 0W-20 at around 700 miles because I found it cheap and I'll change it again at 5k. Something got a little louder in the engine for sure, even the Mrs could tell. Next oil change will be with Castrol 0W-30.

The Castrol 0W-30 European formula is starting to get hard to find around here, where do you get it usually?

Or you just use good quality 0W-20 and not junk?

Thinner oil is used in modern engines for good reason, and its not for "winter/cold" conditions.

I had some stock left from a little while ago, I think I found it at my local Walmart. I'd have to check again, I see Amazon is out.

To address the other point on the thread, I don't plan to sell the BRZ any time soon, but I could see how a documented history could be valuable to the next owner. Having said that, I just sold 3 cars to Vroom and Carvana, and not a single time they asked about service history. They offered more than Carmax too, even enough to offset the tax benefits of trading in.

Carfax is only useful if you're trying to resell your car private party. Most reputable dealers already pay for the report out of their own corporate accounts.

Or just run UOA regularly and it's 100000x better than any Carfax report:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39983

I always run 0w20 in the winter, and 0w30 in the summer. Sometimes add a quart of 5w30 though if its all I have. Choice of oil viscosity on these cars is definitely not negligible, I think I get better gas mileage on 0w20, but the car seems to run better in the summertime if I go up a grade. I agree 0w30 was hard to find recently though you can still order it through Walmart's website.

Also on the choice to DIY your oil yourself and skip official documentation, its a great choice because you'll want to change your oil often. Be sure to check out a fumoto oil drain valve.

The Toyota 0W-20 is a really good oil according to the oil nerds at BITOG. Definitely not junk oil. Very complete additive package and excellent viscosity over temps and oil life.

I'll use Castrol 5W-30 after break-in and beyond.


Yeah reasons like turnover, sales, and service.

When I was considering buying used, carfax reports heavily influenced my interest; so it makes a difference when time to sell, from my perspective. I just couldn't get past the Youtube influencers promoting heavy drivetrain abuse. Back in the day, we didn't abuse our performance cars like they do today. I wouldn't touch a used one with a 10 ft pole.

UOA huh? hmmmm, sounds expensive just to prove you maintained a car. Carfax type reports are good for the online browsers, and I think, does make a difference. And carfax service history is free on a few main listing sites, and Carvana. But I don't think I'll bother worrying about it, unless the 23 has a cubby and a better placed cupholder.:sigh:

I think you're missing the point on the UOA part.

UOA is to prove you have an engine that matches what you claim it has. I only did it every oil change to maximize my oil intervals (and also because no one else was doing it). It is not necessary for a normal car that sees track use, unless you are trying to get more out of your oil or if you are watching how much wear your engine is seeing.

Carfax is great for someone wanting to buy a car that has no documentation with it whatsoever at the time of sale.

If you do your own oil changes, keep track of it, and log all of the regular work, that's all you can do.

Again, Carfax is only relevant if you are wanting to resell the car to private party after however long you own the car. If this is not a part of your consideration to buy the car now, then it is a moot point.

Do your own oil changes and document it, including receipts for oil and filters.

This is simple.

carfax only works if they choose to host the records.

this was 2013. but there's no direct indication that carfax has improved anymore since.
https://abcnews.go.com/Business/trus...8#.UbOr4_nrxyU


i learned that the hard way. the 2001 eclipse that i spent months looking for, and then spent even more time and money making sure that the carfax was clean (it was). later, i took it to a body shop for other work to be done, and they pointed out all sorts of damage that the car had been rear-ended at some point before my ownership. fortunately, it was properly repaired, and the signs of the repair they found were minimal, so i lucked out of anything serious. but it was a lesson for me to trust carfax's data just as much as one would trust the slicked-back hair, gold-chain-wearing, smiling used car salesmen...


and then some people apparently fake records.
https://www.carbibles.com/not-taking...cost-me-10000/

so the best answer is to do one's own due diligence when buying. putting trust in companies with limited liabilities to that data, or trusting the previous owner to say what was done are both recipes for disaster.

Before any warranty decline, they need to prove it. Otherwise throw the Magnuson act. I use Amsoil 5w 30 since 2013, not a single problem engine wise. Probably i will add Forrester oem oil cooler before summer just for peace mind