To everyone else who has rebuilt an engine
 

The amount of gasket maker I'm scraping off is unreal. Like so much gasket. Ungodly amounts. I've probably spent ~4-8 hours scraping gasket off between the timing cover and the heads. My heads are in great shape so maybe this is work a shop would normally do via a bath or some other method but man the amount of labor this is taking is insane compared to the rest of my engine rebuild effort.


WHY!!!!?:bonk::bonk::bonk:

Rtv: it's what makes a Subaru a Subaru

A lot of techs prescribe to the "bigger the gob, the better the job" mentality when applying sealers.

Current status:


LH is all sealed up. Need to do RH. Having some anxiety over gasket application. Was planning to use the permatex "right stuff" grey but my perfect bead can of the stuff was all screwed up. Ended up just using "right stuff" ultra black that I had from work on another car. Also crazy you have to put some gasket maker on the head gasket!



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/l5...-no?authuser=0

Yep, I have rebuilt several engines.

Welp, first off, as you are finding out, the days of getting a gasket set and a tube of Permatex and rebuilding an engine are over. - :iono:

Second off, this engine wasn't designed to take apart and put back together again - if it breaks you are supposed to buy a new car. - :thumbsup:

Ahhhhh yes, I miss the old days - :sigh:

As far as the time to remove and replace the timing cover sealant, that’s why things go south on the recall. Those guys aren t allowed enough time at the dealer to do it right. They really don’t care if the motor blows in a few thousand miles. The dealer just blames it on something else.

I have resealed a lot a machined surfaces together with silk thread and hylomar. It is tedious but thought if I ever rebuild my engine I would give it a try.

I always clean my engine myself with dry ice. so the silicon goes down quickly. But note that you have to apply a maximum of 1 / 10mm thick the new seal so that no sealing compound can be found in the engine and the ducts will clog, because then the engine will be damaged

Haven't heard dry ice.


I used a combination of lots of scraping and brake/parts cleaner.


I've been using the Permatex Right Stuff black to put it back together initially but was able to get some of the grey so started using that. Not sure what the difference between the black and grey is though. From what I can tell its just the color since the cans only read different in that the grey is for "imports" while the black is for "domestics".


Progress pic:

https://i.imgur.com/V3hnQBI.jpeg
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/blob...a-2171b51454ad
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/blob...a-2171b51454ad

The black one is temperature resistant over 300 Gard celsius
the gray one up to 250 degrees
In addition, the thickness that is applied with the gray silicone must be made thinner than the black one because the density in the material is better.

Product description:
K2 SILICONE + 350 ° C is a high quality, black high temperature silicone with a heat resistance up to 350 ° C and is a very good alternative to traditional rubber seals. Due to a special recipe, K2 SILICONE + 350 ° C can also be used in modern, electronic fuel injection systems. K2 SILICONE + 350 ° C meets the standards of vehicle manufacturers in the automotive industry (OEM). It can therefore be used in all cars, motorcycles, buses and agricultural machines. K2 SILICONE + 350 ° C is insensitive (resistant) to oils, water, antifreeze agents and gear fluids.

Instructions for use:
The surface must be dry and free from dust, dirt, grease and remnants of old seals. Apply a small amount of K2 SILICONE + 350 ° C and remove the excess. The product begins to dry after 5 minutes and is hardened after 24 hours.

Our tip:
The excess sealant can be removed more easily with a knife moistened with soap and water.

https://www.permatex.com/gasket-make.../?locale=en_us

I'm comparing right stuff black vs grey. I'm not sure what you're looking at. This says the grey is for newer domestics too. Maybe it's just better for tighter tolerances or something?

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I think if you change the seat rails and seats to Recaro or Sparcco seats we will get a benefit of 10-15 pounds.
I'm building a seat rail for the GR in April where you can mount all the seats, regardless of the manufacturer. I will do it so that the series rails can be used

greatings Ulli

Just finished my rebuild and the car started. Heard some tapping while priming the oil pump and a few seconds into first start. It sounded like it was coming from the high pressure fuel pump/VVT area. It's running great now though.


I ran it for ~30 minutes and a few miles driving it easy with break-in oil then drained that and put 0w-20 in. Going to run that for ~500 miles then change again and get an oil analysis.


What a relief though. This thing was pretty complicated to rebuild but if you're organized and patient I think most mechanically inclined people could get it done.


Hardest part was getting the damn sealant off though. Next hardest was getting the crankshaft pulley bolt out (engine was on engine stand, big mistake not bumping the starter with engine in the car). After that, applying the sealant was a real PITA.