Engine blocks oil pan mounting broke
 

So for starters my car is boosted, im sure it plays a role in this situation, so I wanted to get that out there. The car is on 90.3k miles and ive been boosted for 30k. I daily the car but I dont drive crazy but rather baby the car. Here is the issue though, I began to leak oil all around my oil pan as of recent so I was replacing the sealant. No problem right? Well I didnt know this up until now, but a friend of mine who helped me boost my car was the one who put my oil pan on initially. But what happened was that he used a non oem bolt that wasn't the same thread pitch and dethreaded the area for where it mounts.

So as I carry on to installing the new sealant, I am now having to tap into the area where the bolt mounts, and I make attempt to rethread the m6 threads back but that failed as the bolt is still not even catching thread. So the last thing I can but didn't want to do was move to an m7. I do this successfully but when the m7 started to go in about 1/2 way in, the mounting area snaps off the block exposing the bolt in the oil pan area. I will include pictures as reference to where im talking about.

Any advice on what should happen? I've talked to a few friends who have built motors about this, and they all say to put the bolts back in since they still thread and require torque. And if that were to fail and leak oil, to put a locking nut on the opposite end and do the same.Attachment 206951Attachment 206952

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So it was an ear that broke off? Does the bolt pass through a flange on the block side? Using a nut/bolt combo is the answer if that's the case.

The correct way to do this would have been to drill and re-tap to 7mm. Looks like you just rammed a bolt in which of course bound up and broke the ear

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If you had to break one then it was a good choice. If there is space throw a nut and washer on there and call it a day.

I did re tap the threads to an m7 as I mentioned above, but the ear still broke off. It threads in fine like the other oem bolts as it currently sits and there is no play, but I just wanted to gather input from others as this had me extremely bummed after messing with this for a day.

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It's internal, so a nut would need to be REALLY well captivated. If it was mine, I'd do a helicoil. Get an m6 kit and practice on a block of aluminum first.

I've already tapped to m7 threads, should I go ahead and put an m7 helicoil in as is?

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And to add to that, the bolt threads in fine into the the block but it just worries me about the chipped area.

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You'll have to read up on them, and figure out if the tap drill for the kit is big enough for the major diameter of the female threads. At a minimum you can learn from this experience and consider them in the future.

Will do, I appreciate the advice!

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I should have looked at the pictures on the computer vs my phone before I commented before. On the phone it looked like the bolt was sticking up through the flat part of the casting with load of clearance. Seeing it on the computer gives a whole different perspective.
I totally agree that helicoil is the way to go now.

So far the bolt has held the tension it needs to, if the seal for the oil pan were to give and leak oil again. Ill go ahead and install the helicoil as the threads have been tapped to an m7 already. My main concern at this point is the cracked off ear and if that should be of any concern since oil is flowing in and out.

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Helicoil will require an m8 tap unless you go down to a 5mm bolt. FYI.

If the pan is sealed to the block outside the ear then it shouldn't leak... Wait, is the bolt hole now exposed to the oil? You might have to use a "sealing washer" if that's the case.

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Yeah, since the ear broke off, the bolt is now fully exposed to the oil, it theoretically shouldn't leak but there is a higher chance of it happening if I dont put the sealant on correctly or even enough of it.

I was going to focus putting a little bit more sealant around that bolt area and then using a jack and a piece of wood to add a little bit more tension to ensure the sealant is making full contact with the bottom side of the block.

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I believe using the jack will cause the sealant to cure in the "compressed" state, then when you remove it, the pan will be constantly pulling away. Much better for it to cure in the state it will be used in

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