Drive cycle Incomplete
 

I drove 120miles for 3 hours today to complete my drive cycle it show complete but when i did turn the ignition off all of my driving cycles erase or reset every time, No CEL or any CODE. it been a month already. any one help me about this i don't know what to do now. my smog inspection is in two days, so frustrating. :mad0259: :bow: :cry:

I'm going to ask the obvious question just to get it out of the way:

Are you running an aftermarket tune?

Yes before i do have tune install via Open Flash Tablet tune from (https://degeneratemotoring.com/shop/custom-tune/). and before test drive i even install to all stock like (tune,header, front pipe, intake,) just keep my catch can install, nothing crazy mod yet. because of the SMOG, and i have no clue where to start.

Check your fuses, sounds like the ECM is losing it's keep alive memory when you turn off the car.

Which fuse it is? i have check all the fuses nothing is blown. ECM probably is the culprit? :iono: :cry::cry::

Now I have the Bee Gees stuck in my head.

Don't have a power distribution diagram in front of me to sus it out, but this forum says the 7.5A EFI B+ fuse.

Also, if it isnt blown, make sure it has power.

Thank you very much let me look it up in the morning. just got out of work, i excuse my late reply to you guy, i appreciated all you help. and i am new to electrical wiring please be patience just know fuses not diagram.

Reminder Visual inspection of a fuse is not adequate. These days you can get a functional VOM for $15. If you do not know how to check for continuity of a fuse just Google it I am sure there are plenty of tutorials out there.

A test light is enough for this.

this morning i check for continuity with fuse installed it has beeping, when i try without fuse it did not beep.
i also did brought a test light to make sure, remove fuse tried one end has green light and other end has red light.
i just check 7.5A EFI B+ fuse and DCC Fuse 30A for testing only if they both lighting up

I would suggest being more precise when describing the tests you did and the results you got, you raise nearly as many questions as you answer.

What was beeping, a multimeter in continuity check? But you said you bought a test light? Does the test light beep? But then again you would not expect it to beep if you're probing the contacts in the fuse block, so why do this? is that what you tested for "without the fuse", is a beeping DVOM what you were using, were you testing continuity between both sides of the fuses, removed the fuse block?

The test light you bought I presume has both a positive and negative clamp and shows voltage (green) and ground/0V (red) depending on where you are probing with the pointy end? With the fuse removed and sticking the pointy bit in the fuse block, one pin with voltage and one with no voltage is what you would expect, it sounds like what you did...

And "both light up"?

The easier way to test a fuse is to power the circuit, in this case it's an always hot so it's always on, and simply stick the pointy end of the test light on the exposed bits of contact on each side on top of the fuse as it is installed in the fuse block. You should have voltage on both sides.