Any FUNCTIONAL difference between old vs. new draw stiffener design?
 

I'm looking at adding the flexible draw stiffener (and the flexible V-bars) to my BRZ (because STI - I know, I know...).

I'm debating between the JDM 2015 tS / STI bolt-in option and the 2018/2020 tS version (which requires replacing the rear crossmember as well for the version with the mounting holes).

The design looks essentially the same, and the outboard mounting points are the same, it's just the inboard mounting points and the damper orientation on the one side that are different (the 2015/STI version is asymmetrical with the two dampers oriented opposite directions, while the 2018/2020 has both dampers oriented the same way)

I'm just trying to get my head around whether there is any FUNCTIONAL benefit to the 2018/2020 version. You'd think they changed the design for a reason, but it could just be a simple matter of the aesthetics of the dampers being aligned the same way (I.E. someone at Subaru is just as OCD as me...LOL).

Cost-wise, obviously, the 2018/2020 version will end up more expensive due to the crossmember, and it will be more work to install it. However, I'm leaning toward this option for a) the aesthetics and b) the "period-correctness" of it being the option available on my model year BRZ.

EDIT: I *guess* drilling and tapping the holes in my existing crossmember could also be an option, but somehow the idea of drilling holes in my shiny new car bothers me...LOL.

Any thoughts?

Get the one that bolts in. If it mounts somewhere not designed to, you will probably lose effectiveness. Also, period correct is always more appropriate.

My understanding is that the 2018/2020 tS draw stiffener was changed, because it was fitted in the factory. So, they wanted an easier installation. The JDM 2013/2015 tS draw stiffener was installed at STI's garage (i.e., cars were moved there to make all changes and fit the parts). I would suggest to get the one that can be installed without drilling.

Buy a TRD member brace set, it's much more effective.

In neither case would I be mounting it somewhere it's not intended to - it's one of two choices using factory mounting holes chosen by Subaru/STI (or drilling the non-tS crossmember in the same spot as the factory mounting holes for the 2018/2020 tS).

I totally agree that period-correct would be the better option from a "rightness" point of view, but is it worth the difference in cost if there's NO performance difference? That's the question.


The installation seems just as simple for either - it just uses different mounting points at the front end. The "old" asymmetric style uses existing bolts for the aluminum underbody panel, while the "new" symmetric style uses separate holes in the crossmember. I could potentially see some kind of assembly-line efficiency to having it use separate holes, but who knows?

I almost certainly wouldn't drill to install, choosing either to go with the "old" style add-in unit, or both replacing the crossmember and installing the "new" style unit. It's a significant difference in cost to do the latter, however.


I prefer to stick with the STI parts (because STI and it's a Subaru...LOL), plus I actually like the theory of it only adding stiffness under tension, not compression, for comfort AND performance on real-world roads rather than track performance. Stiffer is not always better when you're dealing with uneven road surfaces and broken pavement.


Thanks everyone for the input!

Ultimately, I think there's probably zero performance difference, so it will just come down to whether or not the aesthetics and period-correctness of using the 2018/2020 tS crossmember and draw stiffener combo is worth the difference in cost and effort for me.

Aesthetics under the car is meaningless honestly. Unless you lay under there and chill out. So go with function and cost.

Just to let you know ... you need the flexible v-bars too. It doesn't work alone:

From STI site:
"This product was designed under the assumption that the STI flexible tower bar (Part No. ST20502AS000) or flexible V bar(Part No.ST20502AS020) is also mounted on the vehicle."

Yup - already planned on the v-bars as well. ;)

...or unless you're kinda OCD like me and would constantly have visions of that asymmetry in my head...LOL!

Seriously, though - I get what you're saying. There's definitely a strong argument for going the lower-cost route if the function/performance is the same (which it almost certainly is).

Better move the driver’s seat to the middle of the car [emoji28]

If you corner weight the car with a driver, then you'll see that weight distribution is almost perfect. Same about alignment where front left wheel is a bit off in camber and it is corrected with a driver. A totally balanced driver focused car up to the last detail ;)