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Engine removal
I recently purchased a 13 frs with an AT thinking it would be a fun car. It had what sounded like a rod knock, so out comes the engine. That was what I thought was the easy part.
I’ve removed trans bell housing bolts, including the two nuts on the bottom studs. All torque converter/flex plate bolts are removed. Starter is removed. Engine mount studs are not in the “holes” I’ve checked several times for perhaps a bolt I forgot to remove I’ve supported the trans, supported the engine, supported both. I’ve used prybars I’ve even said a few choice words This engine does not want to even think about separating from the trans. Is there something I’m missing? It acts as if it’s still bolted together. |
Engine must be supported. How I do it.
Transmission removal Before you do all that, are you sure it's rod knock? The autos have a vacuum pump for the brake booster. They're mounted to the rear of the right side (bank-1) head. They like to fail and make a nasty knocking sound on idle when they've sucked out all the air. They quiet down when they're working. If you pull the brake booster hose and the sound goes away, bingo. |
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Much appreciated info. It ended up taking a can of penetron and some patience. Then it popped right off.
It definitely fragged something. Spun bearing(s) at least. I’m not sure if it’s worth disassembling to possibly rebuild, or just buy a used engine. |
Whelp, that ain't no vacuum pump failure. :(
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Too bad your car's engine came unglued - :( I'm not real sure what I'm looking at in your pictures, did you take them through a microscope? - :confused0068: Anyway, it doesn't look good. Yep, like you suspect, I'd collect up those pieces and toss them in the junk pile and then go look for another engine - :iono: |
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Thrust bearing - crank walk? Weird for an automatic. Also, these engines aren't known for that.
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I didn’t think anyone had crank walk issues these days. I called a couple dealerships because the F02 (I think) valve spring recall showed incomplete. I was wishfully hoping a spring gave and grenaded the engine. Valve springs look good and are paint marked green. Anyway, the previous owner said when he took it in to the local dealer (Victoria) he was passing a car and “rpms went high”. Then he heard a noise and lost power (go figure). A dealer in Houston read me the description of the Victoria dealer’s repair order. Victoria dealer refused to do the recall in its current condition, and said they would have to speak to a rep regarding doing the recall on a used engine. |
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Will any other Subaru engines be a plug and play? I saw one from a crosstrek that was reasonably priced. These fa20s range from 3-6 grand. |
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First picture is the lower oil pan. Second and third is what I’m more familiar with being main bearing caps. Case halves in aviation. Last picture is the #3 rod end. I think maybe a main bearing spun or a thrust bearing if he’s have them? I’ll disassemble everything out of sheer curiosity. I’ve never torn down or built a boxer, but I have plenty of experience building DSM, sbc, bbc, and turbines. Famous last words….how bad can it be? *also in first picture the swarf on my ring finger could reasonably be a bearing. It’s shiny-ish and thin. The piece on my middle finger is mostly smooth, dark, and thick. It’s also ferrous.* |
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These engines are spendy but if you aren't in a big hurry, I bet we can get some help to find you one. I'm terrible at it. :( |
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Yep, as a senior myself, I can appreciate BIG pictures and LARGE print - :thumbsup: To resize a picture, just put it into any photo editing program and whittle them down so as they fit the forum's picture frame best - ;) |
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