clutch pedal on floor.
 

Hey guys,

So i put my new built block in my car. :happyanim: and while the car was sitting(+5months) I obviously bought upgrades, like Chase Bay's clutch line.

I removed the stock clutch line assembly and installed the chase bay unit. Prior to removing the OEM clutch line assembly, i handpumped out most of the old brake fluid from the reservoir.

I got someone to pump the clutch pedal 6-8 times then i open the bleeder valve while the clutch pedal is pressed down to bleed. I did this for 10-20 minutes until i saw no air bubbles in the fluid, but the whole time the clutch would not want to go back automatically after releasing the fluid through the bleeder. Pumping the clutch pedal a few times would eventually get it to go back up, but it doesnt do it fast at all or right away.

Anyone got any pointers or might be the issue?
i took off the slave cylinder to check if the boot was damaged or leaking, all good on the Slave cylinder. Also, no leaks from the clutch master either.

Could it be, since the car was sitting for over 5 months?

Sitting won't cause that something it's amiss. Is your clutch pressure plate installed facing the right way? When bleeding, did you close the bleed valve before the pedal was released?

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Heres a photo of a bad angle of the clutch. But im sure the pressure plate is the right way. Do you mean the actual clutch? I believe i do have it right. If worst comes to worst ill pull the trans and check if i cant fix it by bleeding it.

Yes, before the clutch pedal is released i close the bleeder valve.

Won't be able to see from here. I just mention the friction plate because I just installed mine backwards on my LS and the pedal felt super weak. Sounds like you're bleeding properly. Maybe you've still got a bubble in it

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my dad and brother pumped the pedal and they did say that it was really soft. but to me it feels like factory, I did change the clutch but i know South bend clutches feel like OEM.

So maybe i did put it in the incorrect way. I'll bleed it for an hour straight tomorrow. If it doesn't work then I'll pull that dang trans. (ugh)

I'll suggest this for bleeding: use grease to seal the sides of the valve. Use a length of hose to reach from the slave to the reservoir. Bleed in a complete loop

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Good idea! ill try that. one question, if my clutch disc is installed wrong, would the car even start?

I had some trouble bleeding mine after swapping the slave cylinder. Jacking the car up (so the bleed screw end is elevated), and pressing in the slave pin while the pedal is depressed and bleeder is open got everything working again.

thanks mate! my car is on jack stands but on all 4 jack stands ill drop the rear.
question, when you say slave pin, you mean the pin/piston thing that contacts the clutch fork?

Yep, that's it. Bleeding via the service manual method I was getting zero bubbles after a while. Pressed the pin in and a bunch of air came out.

Yes, car will start, but won't shift.

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