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Direct injectors installation issues.
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Hey im installing my direct injectors to my engine and with the injectors in the fuel rail. When i tried to installl the fuel rail with the injectors, there was alot of resistance. I pushed pretty hard on the fuel rail to try to get those injectors in but didnt work.
When i pulled out the injectors, the seals looked ruined now. How the heck do i install the DI without damaging the seals? Does it just drop right in or is there suppose to be alot of resistance? Pics are of the the fuel rails and the gap between the threads and fuel rail. Other one is pic of injector seal after attempting to install. Any help would be greatly appreciated |
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Injector seal before installation.
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I suspect the company who i got to do the injector cleaning and re seals didnt do it properly. 2 of my seals have torn
Fudge me. I spoke with the company and they said that in the service manual youre suppose to put the injector in the freezer to shrink the seals. But i dont see it in the service manual. Ugh. Well my build as stalled again |
It doesn't exactly slide right in, but the entire assembly tightens down smoothly.
Did you wipe off the injectors before you snapped the after pic? I imagine it would be pretty difficult to get these in dry. I think our service manual relies on leftover oil from the seal installation. Mazda actually specifies applying engine oil directly to the cylinder head hole. Never seen anything about freezing these either. |
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yea im sure the company i was speaking with was just trying to cover their asses. And they were aftermarket seals, which were slightly longer than the oem seals. I have the OEM seals on hand but no SST tool so im waiting for that in the mail. it does make sense though for freezing it since the seals are so pliable. |
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I think i know what company youre talking about. Because when i had to do this, the same problem happened to me. I spoke with them about it and I was told the same thing, but I knew for sure it doesnt say shit about freezing them in the service manual. I had it out when i called them. In the end i went with OEM seals since they are slightly shorter. Yea just so anyone else runs into this issue. Just use the OEM seals. They work and its meant to work there from factory. 6k miles built motor and everything is fine, so far. TDLR; use oem seals. Freeze them if youre having trouble. But just stick with oem seals. |
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1. clean out the injector hole thoroughly 2. use a VERY light amount of lube. Bare minimum to make it slightly slippery 3. freeze the injector to shrink it. Cold stuff is smaller. You do this because you can't exactly heat up your engine block. Whoever told you to do this knows what they're doing. 4. get it done professionally if you don't know what level of force is normal. |
What did you do to install your injectors? Install instructions for GDI seem rather vague. Most make it seem that they should just slide in. I get mine back from cleaning and testing next week and would obviously like to avoid any mishaps. Did you follow @CSGMike's instructions? Thanks.
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The seals are surprisingly malleable and could be damaged easily. Just take your time and for sure FREEZE THEM. https://www.freedomracing.com/09260-...t-st-s919.html Found the user and link https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...ght=Fuel+seals I followed this guide along with freezing them for a good while. Like 1-2 hours in the freezer. |
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Thanks. My seals should be on the injectors when I get them back. After freezing them and some lub, do they insert fairly easily? |
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When the seals are installed, the end in the up position usually gets mushroomed or tuliped on the end. If you try to install it this way, it slides too far up the injector resulting in the torn seal as you have above. Once the seal is on, you have to either use the proper tool to slide over it to re shrink it to be square on the bottom, or devise a tool to do the same. The seal will slide up the shaft some. That is how it seals. But when the seal is tuliped, it gets a head start and goes too far up the shaft and tears.
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