How does this wear look like?
 

Hello all,

I use the Yokohama v105. After only 6k km (3,7k miles) they are looking like this, and I wonder if this is normal and how do you rate this wear. I can notice the worsening of grip

I used them for 2 trackdays of 40 min and ok I do some slides from time to time, but are they not looking too bad for the short distance?

Btw, recently I rotated them like in a cross "X", but now I read in the manual that the rears should keep the same side. Why is that?

These are the measured depths (mm):

Left (ext med in) Right (int med ext)
Front 7,2 7,5 6,6 6,5 7,4 7,1
Rear 6,5 6,5 5,3 5,7 6,3 5,8

https://i.ibb.co/jRpCY0P/image.png
https://i.ibb.co/w4zrbwN/image.png
https://i.ibb.co/VMhPfBd/image.png

No pictures shown.

Fixed now, thanks!

Normal wear from not exactly track tires that were subjected to high temps.
For rotation i never cared much about same side or not, also usually rotating in X pattern, as not only wear front to rear may differ, also (if you visit same track) right to left may differ, due tracks usually being one direction, so turns to one side being more then to other. X pattern deals with evening wear just fine. Main thing to watchout for would be for rears being closer to each other by wear/size/tire model, as our cars have LSD diff instead of open one. Small variances may add much more load to it (as then it needs to work all the time, even when going straight), which results extra heat, degradation of diff oil, high wear (of expensive part). Hence manual mentions to never use spacesaver in rear (due LSD), but if puncture one, put front one in place, but spacesaver - in front. Or why one shouldn't replace just one tire in rear. Or why someone bitten by staggered tiresize bug looses ability to rotate tires to even out wear (in addition to adding lot of understeer to car).

No reason to worry about your tire rotation. Only "directional" tires require to be rotated front to back in a non-X formation, as the tread pattern design is setup to only rotate in one direction. Yokohama v105 states that they are non-directional, so you're good.

If you track your car, mileage is not a good metric to determine tire life. Go by inspection and grip levels. You can ruin a new set of street tires at the track in one session.

If you plan on regular track use get dedicated track tires and brake pads. It will save you money and give you a better experience on the track and on the street.

Looks like what happens to an all season when you use it for something it wasn't intended for. They'll continue to do this until chunks are breaking off.


The compound itself is likely compromised, so that's why you'll have a loss of grip. You likely heated them up well past what they were intended for and they won't go back to feeling normal again. They'll continue to get harder and lose even more grip. You likely won't get even near wearing the tread out before you give up on them.


Next time get at least a cheaper set of summer tires. No problems using the all seasons like this, but after a few track days, they'll be junk.

These are max performance summer tires, not all season tires.

Unfortunately, a track day will still kill some Max performance tires. Not all Max performance/UHP summer tire compounds can handle immense heat like that. You should look at the Michelin PS4S, Continental ECS, Advan V601 or jump straight to the 200tw category.

Agreed, I just wanted to clarify that. As mentioned - dedicated track tires are always the best way to go.

by my eye, with the pictures provided it looks to me like you could use a little more negative camber. Looks like the outer edge is worn a bit more than the inner edge

Typicall look of a tire that has not been used for it's purposes. probably the sticky asphalt on the track forced the tire to break down, because track tires get more soft and squishy under heat, and road tires stay firm, altho they stick pretty good

Looks overheated.