Does this seem exclusive to hot starts, or does it affect cold starting, too?
The scaling on the wideband could be goofy, but Delicious should be able to figure that out..

I have several logs where a tuner attempted to fix the issue but was unsuccessful.
https://datazap.me/u/celigts

Here’s a log of idle so you don’t have to sift through the logs/tests.
https://datazap.me/u/celigts/1351-tune?log=0&data=16

Delicious hasn’t figured it out and called it quits. Never fixed their logs for mapping and I’m tired of them having poor service.

Problem isn’t exclusive to cold starts but does seem to be worse in hot weather. Likes to stall more.

Could be totally unrelated, but there is a intake air temperature compensation fueling map I had to raise to like 150 across the board to let my car to idle correctly on hot starts and in general. My car was stalling on clutch in and generally any time the car wasn't dead cold.


This does not sound related, but it could be another contributor.

The logs in your datazap account are a pain to watch, should be renominated in Atrocious Tuning

I’m confused…

Whatcha mean ��

I had a guy attempt to fix the rich/idle issue so there’s logs that are mainly for testing purposes.

Ok sorry i ve miss understood, that you were tuned by delicious

if someone is scaling your fueling on your tune and those are logs of that, he s not doing a great good

I've experienced similar symptoms when some kind of harness or connector issues related the MAF sensor. After I arranged the harness near the MAF connector it came back normal usually. You should make sure MAF scaling was done with normal connection state.

And care must be taken when scaling below 1.21V range of MAF sensor.

Thinking it’s a bad harness?

My harness looks intact but unsure how to check exactly.

It’s reading fine from my understanding.

New MAF put it and no change.

-30 means its subtracting as much fuel as it can(or close to it anyway) this is a huge red flag and one of the type of things I was talking about. This means its super rich when in closed loop.

you can monitor your short term fuel trim while you do various things such as idle, stead 2500 rpm in gear, gentle cruise at 2500, decel in gear, accell in gear etc to further isolate where the problem is happening.

Rich is both trickier to find and easier to find than lean as only a few mechanical things can cause it. Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, kinked return line(tho I suspect this is a returnless system), leaking injector(s), etc. Yes a bad MAF and/or primary O2 sensor can cause this too, as can a bad PCM, but these are where to start

I tuned to stock and it’s running -10% LTFT at idle however I still have my PTuning header on the car and it’s throwing 3 codes.

P0137
P2096
P219A

I’m told these are from the catless header and should be the issue.

Getting tuned in person on Monday by Counterspace Garage so we’ll see.

Was thinking leaky injectors but I replaced the port injectors. The DI injectors we’re going to be done but I was told it more than likely is a waste of time. 🤔

Any updates?

Okay so giant horrible news.

A leakdown/compression test was performed. Discovered that it’s leaking in cylinder 3 causing misfires.
Compression test failed in cylinder 2 and 3.

Engine is apart now at Toyota. Not sure what the cause is but the issue is cylinder 3 is not sealing when it’s at the top of its motion and it’s leaking fluid is what I’m told.

Car has 131k miles on it and along with some other maintenance related things (timing chain:tensioner:guides) the car needs a new block I’m told.

Any chance I can get Toyota to fork up some of the bill? Am I SOL?

Looking like $6500 in repairs on a motor that runs and seemingly runs fine after idle. Able to drive it for seemingly years as I’ve been trying to track down my issue for these few years.

Any options? Suggestions?

Thanks!