Stalling at idle - HELP!!
 

Update!!!



Okay so giant horrible news.

A leakdown/compression test was performed. Discovered that it’s leaking in cylinder 3 causing misfires.
Compression test failed in cylinder 2 and 3.

Engine is apart now at Toyota. Not sure what the cause is but the issue is cylinder 3 is not sealing when it’s at the top of its motion and it’s leaking fluid is what I’m told.

Car has 131k miles on it and along with some other maintenance related things (timing chain:tensioner:guides) the car needs a new block I’m told.

Any chance I can get Toyota to fork up some of the bill? Am I SOL?

Looking like $6500 in repairs on a motor that runs and seemingly runs fine after idle. Able to drive it for seemingly years as I’ve been trying to track down my issue for these few years.

Any options? Suggestions?

Thanks!

(Below is my initial issue)


__________________________________________________ _


The problem:

Car runs extremely rich at idle. ��
-30% LTFT
But when under load it seems to even out the trims and run fine.

Mods:

Ptuning header (equal length)
JDL frontpipe (cat+silencer)
Ptuning catback
Grams throttle body (new - hoping this would fix the issue)
K&N Drop in air filter
Running on e85 for 6 years now pretty much exclusively.


Car sits at 600 rpm dips below it at idle then tries to rev up sometimes to like 2.5k rpm. Rinse repeat about 6 times. Sometimes it’ll just stall and sometimes it’ll stall after 2-3 times after it revs itself up and down. Sometimes when accelerating the car has a weird pop noise like plasticy sounding pop and the engine just doesn’t want to move. Often idle dips when pressing the gas pedal before it actually accelerates almost have to pre-rev it just to get the car moving from idle.

I’ve cleaned my stock throttle body, didn’t work so I replaced it with the Grams throttle body, Ran fuel injector cleaner and replaced the fuel solenoid.

Spark plugs were changed at 80k miles and the car now has 130k and I’ve changed them again.

(UPDATED replaced PARTS LIST)

New Sparks OEM
New coil packs Delicious tuning
New throttle body Gramms
New Perrin air intake tube
New air filter K&N
New MAF OEM
New MAP OEM
New O2 sensor OEM
Cut Snorkel ��
New PCV valve
New Oil catch can
New Battery
New Injectors OEM
New OEM Evap solenoid
New DW300C Fuel pump

Unsure what to do from here.

My tuner (Delicious tuning) is out of ideas and has given up helping.

Would removing the header and factory tuning it and then taking it Toyota be my only solution?


Any help is appreciated!

Have you checked/cleaned/replaced your air filter?

Absolutely. Every oil change.

No check engine light? I wonder if your e85 use has degraded the fuel pump. This also sounds like what happened when my fuel pressure regular went bad at 60k miles.

Have you tried disconnecting the negative battery terminal for a spell .... which will allow the ECU relearn some stuff?

New battery

And

New grams throttle body, so disconnected battery then also.


Zero check engine lights.

I would get rid of that aftermarket O2 sensor and install the OEM sensor to start. ALWAYS use OEM sensors in these cars from a reputable source. Unfortunately, dealers are the best source for these sensors.

Also, not only are aftermarket sensors NOT reliable, which is reason enough to not use them, now you have to watch out for counterfeit "OEM" parts.

I'll go replace it today.

Next will be Mass Air Flow Sensor (OEM)

check a few things on a scantool, or something that will display engine parameters.

Look at what the ECU is requesting for IAC steps (or however this car plays with idle speeds), and see where its actually idling at

look at TPS both requested and actual

look at cam timing on all 4 cams

look at ignition timing, fuel pressure, anything else related to this. If anything looks off, or isn't what is being requested, start looking there.

The worst thing you can do is to just start tossing parts at it. You may get lucky, or you might replace 6 good parts before you get it

Be logical and reason your way thru it

I have the ECUtek Bluetooth so it connects to my phone and can see all different logs for what the cars doing but I’m not sure what “normal” is.

Also replacing 6 good parts isn’t a problem since I’m at like 115k miles and some of these parts have to be replaced anyways.

There are a couple of people here that know what normal looks like and will look at your logs if you post them, and even give you advice on what to replace.

Did you ever get that O2 sensor replaced?

Replaced the MAF with an OEM.

Same issues.

I’m running -30% LTFT at idle.
Car stalls out nearly every red light now it’s horrible.

Updated main post with parts list replaced.

Bump

No logs, no help