Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB

Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=72)
-   -   Car won't start, engine coolant high temperature? (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146070)

TeaFee 07-09-2021 07:21 PM

Car won't start, engine coolant high temperature?
 
1 Attachment(s)
Parked car in garage after a decent drive this morning.
Ambient temp is ~80f
Went to start the car after plugging in new dash cam into the usb on the center console, and car won't start?

Initially, the headlights were flickering and I couldn't get them to turn off with the toggle on the steering wheel stick.
Then the push start/stop button wouldn't even respond.

Disconnected every usb/cig lighter inside, then disconnected negative terminal and reconnected, now seems bit more normal.
When trying to start, it says "Engine Coolant High Temperature"
and all the lights and usb/cig lighters power on.
But no starter motor or anything.

Edit:
checked fuses, and both
(CDS) 25 A Electric cooling fan
and
RDI 25 A Electric cooling fan
fuses were blown.
So the radiator fans haven't been turning on for a while I guess?
Replaced both blown fuses, but car still won't try to start :(

humfrz 07-09-2021 10:22 PM

That sucks!

Is your car a AT or MT?

Did you check the big fuses up on the battery terminal?

Do you have a code reader? If so, any codes thrown?

If you don't have a code reader, I suggest you invest in an inexpensive one then check for codes.

Come back.

FR-S2GT86 07-10-2021 01:31 AM

What is your battery voltage? While you're under the hood checking that with a volt meter, what do your terminals look like, any corrosion? Are they tight?

TeaFee 07-10-2021 10:04 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Walked my butt to autozone and hauled a new battery back.
Popped it in and that managed to bring the car back to life.

Bit confused cause the very 1st thing I tried when it didn't start was jumping the car with my portable lithium power pack jumper thing.
When that didn't work, I didn't think to multimeter the battery to double check.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86 (Post 3448046)
What is your battery voltage?

7.8v when it was still attached to the terminals in the car.
11.9v now after 24hrs have passed since I swapped it out and left it on the ground.
Does that suggest something else is the root issue and not the battery, or is that normal?
New one's still reading 12v+ for now.


Quote:

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 3448010)
Is your car a AT or MT?
Did you check the big fuses up on the battery terminal?
Do you have a code reader? If so, any codes thrown?

-2014 manual limited (2021-07-17 Edit: this was typo, mine's actually a '17 model)
-Nope, did not even know those were a thing, thanks for the info.
-I do have one, but couldn't really get it to establish a connection with the car.
Guessing if the charge was so low that it couldn't even keep the lights on without flickering, maybe didn't have enough to power the OBD-Reader?
Though it did power up the reader just fine, just couldn't get it to 'establish a connection with the car'.
The interior overhead lights also wasn't turning on, neither was the door/trunk's auto unlock when sensing the key fob. Though it sensed it just fine when inside the car and trying to start it.
The instrument panel and the day-light running LEDs were illuminated, but would flicker like a dying lightbulb every now and then.

soundman98 07-10-2021 11:47 PM

something's wrong with the terminal in the 2nd picture. at the very least, it's corroded, bent, and twisted. doesn't look oem.

humfrz 07-11-2021 01:50 AM

So, does everything work right with the new battery?

:iono:

TeaFee 07-11-2021 02:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 3448252)
So, does everything work right with the new battery?

Yup! And car is starting up maybe a tenth or two of a second faster now.
Just worried same thing might happen to this new one though, if the root cause isn't just the oem battery at end of life.
I mean, it felt perfectly fine and always registered 12-14v to the car while running. Until it suddenly didn't and died.
Maybe I should get a battery tender / new jumper for the oem one and pop it back in? Currently somehow registering 11.9v now.



Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3448236)
something's wrong with the terminal in the 2nd picture. at the very least, it's corroded, bent, and twisted. doesn't look oem.

Hmmm, I'll go find a new brz from a dealer and take a pic to compare then.
Thanks for the warning, I just hooked it back on the way it was, didn't think it might be wrong/damaged.

humfrz 07-11-2021 02:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeaFee (Post 3448257)
Yup! And car is starting up maybe a tenth or two of a second faster now.
Just worried same thing might happen to this new one though, if the root cause isn't just the oem battery at end of life.
I mean, it felt perfectly fine and always registered 12-14v to the car while running. Until it suddenly didn't and died.
Maybe I should get a battery tender / new jumper for the oem one and pop it back in? Currently somehow registering 11.9v now.

Hmmm, I'll go find a new brz from a dealer and take a pic to compare then.
Thanks for the warning, I just hooked it back on the way it was, didn't think it might be wrong/damaged.

Yep, them batteries do wear out. 6-7 years is pretty old for these batteries. My 2013 has the OEM battery and is working fine. However, about every 6 months I add distilled water (if needed) and put it on a charger overnight to perk it up.

With the voltmeter attached to the new battery, it should read 12+ volts without the car running and 13+ volts with the car running.

soundman98 07-11-2021 03:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeaFee (Post 3448257)
Yup! And car is starting up maybe a tenth or two of a second faster now.
Just worried same thing might happen to this new one though, if the root cause isn't just the oem battery at end of life.
I mean, it felt perfectly fine and always registered 12-14v to the car while running. Until it suddenly didn't and died.
Maybe I should get a battery tender / new jumper for the oem one and pop it back in? Currently somehow registering 11.9v now.



Hmmm, I'll go find a new brz from a dealer and take a pic to compare then.
Thanks for the warning, I just hooked it back on the way it was, didn't think it might be wrong/damaged.

I'll take a picture later today of my '14. Much easier

RZNT4R 07-11-2021 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3448236)
something's wrong with the terminal in the 2nd picture. at the very least, it's corroded, bent, and twisted. doesn't look oem.

Nah, it's fine

soundman98 07-11-2021 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RZNT4R (Post 3448302)
Nah, it's fine

when did they change the terminal design to an angled, non-spacer connection?

i've never seen a battery terminal with an angled bolt design. it's always perpendicular to the battery posts. looks someone put their back into it.



here's my pics btw. which is an entirely different negative terminal connection. i've also got some extra 4ga wiring, and a battery maintainer plug. not to mention, my entire engine bay needs some cleaning.
https://i.imgur.com/czeTDvA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ojs2TFc.jpg

FR-S2GT86 07-11-2021 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3448313)
when did they change the terminal design to an angled, non-spacer connection?

i've never seen a battery terminal with an angled bolt design. it's always perpendicular to the battery posts. looks someone put their back into it.



here's my pics btw. which is an entirely different negative terminal connection. i've also got some extra 4ga wiring, and a battery maintainer plug. not to mention, my entire engine bay needs some cleaning.
https://i.imgur.com/czeTDvA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ojs2TFc.jpg


I hope the fuses for those two aftermarket wires you’ve got connected to the positive terminal are close by.

FR-S2GT86 07-11-2021 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeaFee (Post 3448217)
Walked my butt to autozone and hauled a new battery back.
Popped it in and that managed to bring the car back to life.

Bit confused cause the very 1st thing I tried when it didn't start was jumping the car with my portable lithium power pack jumper thing.
When that didn't work, I didn't think to multimeter the battery to double check.


7.8v when it was still attached to the terminals in the car.
11.9v now after 24hrs have passed since I swapped it out and left it on the ground.
Does that suggest something else is the root issue and not the battery, or is that normal?
New one's still reading 12v+ for now.



-2014 manual limited
-Nope, did not even know those were a thing, thanks for the info.
-I do have one, but couldn't really get it to establish a connection with the car.
Guessing if the charge was so low that it couldn't even keep the lights on without flickering, maybe didn't have enough to power the OBD-Reader?
Though it did power up the reader just fine, just couldn't get it to 'establish a connection with the car'.
The interior overhead lights also wasn't turning on, neither was the door/trunk's auto unlock when sensing the key fob. Though it sensed it just fine when inside the car and trying to start it.
The instrument panel and the day-light running LEDs were illuminated, but would flicker like a dying lightbulb every now and then.


That negative terminal clamp looks aftermarket to me.

soundman98 07-11-2021 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86 (Post 3448322)
I hope the fuses for those two aftermarket wires you’ve got connected to the positive terminal are close by.

always. they're just outside of the picture


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:36 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2025 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.


Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.