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Car won't start, engine coolant high temperature?
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Parked car in garage after a decent drive this morning.
Ambient temp is ~80f Went to start the car after plugging in new dash cam into the usb on the center console, and car won't start? Initially, the headlights were flickering and I couldn't get them to turn off with the toggle on the steering wheel stick. Then the push start/stop button wouldn't even respond. Disconnected every usb/cig lighter inside, then disconnected negative terminal and reconnected, now seems bit more normal. When trying to start, it says "Engine Coolant High Temperature" and all the lights and usb/cig lighters power on. But no starter motor or anything. Edit: checked fuses, and both (CDS) 25 A Electric cooling fan and RDI 25 A Electric cooling fan fuses were blown. So the radiator fans haven't been turning on for a while I guess? Replaced both blown fuses, but car still won't try to start :( |
That sucks!
Is your car a AT or MT? Did you check the big fuses up on the battery terminal? Do you have a code reader? If so, any codes thrown? If you don't have a code reader, I suggest you invest in an inexpensive one then check for codes. Come back. |
What is your battery voltage? While you're under the hood checking that with a volt meter, what do your terminals look like, any corrosion? Are they tight?
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Walked my butt to autozone and hauled a new battery back.
Popped it in and that managed to bring the car back to life. Bit confused cause the very 1st thing I tried when it didn't start was jumping the car with my portable lithium power pack jumper thing. When that didn't work, I didn't think to multimeter the battery to double check. Quote:
11.9v now after 24hrs have passed since I swapped it out and left it on the ground. Does that suggest something else is the root issue and not the battery, or is that normal? New one's still reading 12v+ for now. Quote:
-Nope, did not even know those were a thing, thanks for the info. -I do have one, but couldn't really get it to establish a connection with the car. Guessing if the charge was so low that it couldn't even keep the lights on without flickering, maybe didn't have enough to power the OBD-Reader? Though it did power up the reader just fine, just couldn't get it to 'establish a connection with the car'. The interior overhead lights also wasn't turning on, neither was the door/trunk's auto unlock when sensing the key fob. Though it sensed it just fine when inside the car and trying to start it. The instrument panel and the day-light running LEDs were illuminated, but would flicker like a dying lightbulb every now and then. |
something's wrong with the terminal in the 2nd picture. at the very least, it's corroded, bent, and twisted. doesn't look oem.
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So, does everything work right with the new battery?
:iono: |
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Just worried same thing might happen to this new one though, if the root cause isn't just the oem battery at end of life. I mean, it felt perfectly fine and always registered 12-14v to the car while running. Until it suddenly didn't and died. Maybe I should get a battery tender / new jumper for the oem one and pop it back in? Currently somehow registering 11.9v now. Quote:
Thanks for the warning, I just hooked it back on the way it was, didn't think it might be wrong/damaged. |
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With the voltmeter attached to the new battery, it should read 12+ volts without the car running and 13+ volts with the car running. |
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i've never seen a battery terminal with an angled bolt design. it's always perpendicular to the battery posts. looks someone put their back into it. here's my pics btw. which is an entirely different negative terminal connection. i've also got some extra 4ga wiring, and a battery maintainer plug. not to mention, my entire engine bay needs some cleaning. https://i.imgur.com/czeTDvA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ojs2TFc.jpg |
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I hope the fuses for those two aftermarket wires you’ve got connected to the positive terminal are close by. |
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That negative terminal clamp looks aftermarket to me. |
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