So you think the #1 may even be better than #2? Another thing concerns me is that the TEIN Street Basis coil-over. Do you know if it has similar performance as the stock coil-overs? I will track it so I want something that is no worse than stock.

It was a comparison between #1 and #4. #1 would be better in that sense.#2 would still be a solid choice too. So between 1 and 2, both would be good. Unfortunately I do not have experience using any suspension mods. But I did a quick search online and there are several threads that discuss the pros/cons of the TEIN Street Basis.

Thank you very much. I will go check out those threads.

Somehow my post was posted twice. Thank you for your advise, I will delete that duplicated post.

#1 because I know for a fact your going to want to mod the car.

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LOL yes, I will go check them out this week.

If you know for a "fact" that he is gong to want to modify the car then #2 is still the better choice. Start with a fresh canvas for doing his own mods not working around somebody else's.
Not sure how you know this is a fact though since there are loads of people that don't mod their cars.
If he is struggling this hard to decide which car to buy (even though there is a clear and evident majority) I can't wait to see the questions on each and every mod!

Sez the guy whose profile proclaims "bone stock"...:bellyroll:

I'm sure you could look up my build thread. Bone stock in my sig was to be sarcastic. Noobs on here.... smh

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I would recommend #1, nego the price to same as #2. If one of those parts are not to your liking, you can buy a 17+ component, replace, sell the aftmkt and save some money.

This is considering that you wanna have this kind of headache.

Hi guys. Firstly thank you for all these responses. I tried them last weekend. The 1st one is way too loud and the steering is very loose. The 2nd one is amazing, almost like new.

I found another CPO 2017 86 from Toyota Dealership. 60k km, CAD $21200, include 3 year warranty. I was gonna go for it, but I noticed one thing in the warranty policy (please see the bold text below):

Parts not covered are: all glass (mirrors, heated windshields and rear windows with defroster), fog lamps, lenses, sealed beams, lamps, light bulbs, tires (with the exception of ECP Road Hazard Coverage), wheels or wheel studs, trim, seat frames, convertible top, mouldings, weather-strips, bright metal, sheet metal, body parts (including frame), bumpers, upholstery, carpet, paint, brake rotors and drums, brake linings and pads, batteries and cables, manual clutch disc lining, pressure plate and bushings, throw-out bearings, catalytic converter (which may be covered by Emissions Control Systems Warranties), exhaust system, non-manufacturer installed accessories.

This makes me question that why don't they cover these part. I know there is a known issue with TOB on 2013, is it the same case in 2017?

clutches are like brake pads. they're generally considered consumables

So manual clutch disc lining, pressure plate and bushings are all parts of clutch? What about the throw-out bearing?

I would say find a cheaper one bro.

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