Oil pressure
 

I tapped in off the Oil pressure sensor from the oil cooler plate(mishimoto cooler), at cold start pressure was @100 psi(only have a 100psi gauge for now). Once warmed up, at idle held about 20psi. Driving in 6th gear, 2-3k rpm around 50psi.

I’ve read people getting 10 psi at idle.

I have a Killer bee Oil pick up tube since I’m boosted.

The car itself, 2020 Brz anyone else have these pressures?

Those are normal numbers.

What is the "oil cooler plate"? Do you mean the sandwich plate? What gauge/sensor is this? What oil weight?
Your numbers seem good, but they will differ a bit based on where you're sampling from.
At least you know if it's ever not reading at what you're used to see, the road may get bumpy

Yeah i meant the sandwich plate, its just a cheapo glowshift until my aem ones come in.



Im running 0w-20, JDL turbo, upgraded radiator, fan shroud, oil cooler and waiting on a vented hood as well. Trying to keep temps down as much as i can in arizona.



I think once my AEM gauges come in, ill be going off the OEM oil sensor location

I spent 2 weeks in Tucson years ago, sometime late March.

Highs were in the 30s here in Vermont. During my stay, it was 80-90 in Tucson- I can't fathom trying to manage oil temps during summer, best of luck!

Being you are FI and in a warm climate, I would keep an eye on it. Min pressure at idle per FSM is 7.3psi at 176F oil temp. If you are getting the car hotter in traffic you may want to go to 5-30w. Recommended oil pressure at 6k RPM is 73psi at 176F oil temp.

Yeah ive done all i could for now, next step is vented hood, and maybe figure out a way to cool the oil a bit more. Driving to and from work 30 miles one way all highway, oil temps get to about 205F

Something seems weird about this. The mishimoto is sized about right. Where is it mounted? Are you sure you're getting good airflow?

If he's doing the highway in Arizona, ambient is probably 106f this time of year. Who knows how much heat the pavement radiates, and he's probably averaging 80mph, which is pretty high in the revs for a long time.

205 doesn't seem unbelievable, but I didn't get to run mine for too long in temps over 70f

Yeah. It's not awful. Good point about ambient temp.

Actually, in those conditions at that speed 205f seems downright reasonable. In deep south Texas at ambients of 100f +/- the oil temp on my NA ran just over 200 at 75-80. Over the pandemic I installed a o2w wrx/forester cooler and haven't had a chance to do an extended highway run yet.

Sadly not going 80, I stay around 70 just cause I don’t wanna high rev the whole way & let the temps rise.

I will update more thru the week.

My oil

It’s mount slightly off center

Is it mounted on the undertray?

That does seem just a touch high to me. Make sure your topped off with oil considering the additional capacity. Also, the turbo will add heat to the system. I run a mishimoto with my supercharger where ambient can be around 100-105 and my cooler usually never goes above 185 (After Cooler) for normal driving.

Are people ever concerned about too cold of oil? Ambient temp here around Seattle hardly ever gets above 80* and that's for a month at most.

It seems operating temp for these oils with 0W-20 is around 100*C or 212*F. This is to ensure you are boiling off any condensation in the motor. I do not plan on adding an oil cooler with my Edelbrock, initially, until I see high temps on normal driving (I do not track). I will be adding a PCV catch-can, though.

It seems like everyone screaming oil coolers are parroting or reps looking to sell them.

I block mine off in the winter. I have a hard time getting my engine up to temp as it is in cooler weather on the street.

I was one of those people. And it was too cold unless you were in bumper to bumper traffic. In normal traffic, during 80F-90F temps, oil temps with a front mount oil cooler were 170-190F. Mine is street driven as well.

I have an oil cooler, I also think it's not needed but, however, I do recommend the OEM oil style oil coolers, its a sandwich plate that cools the oil with the coolant. Perfect for street driven only car. I believe most turbocharged Subarus from the factory have of them.

I cover my oil cooler with a peice of 2mm corflute for daily driving. the oil sits around 100°C. Without the cover it only reached 75°C.

I like this! They look cheap too

Spec/test oil temp is 176 F (80 C). The whole boiling thing is just wrong. We don't bake our clothes to dry them. Oil pressure drops off sharply as temp increases but here's the rub. Is that bad? We really don't know because the operating limits aren't published.

I can say this for sure. Before my oil cooler, I could literally hear/feel my engine begin to rattle (queue the flamers) as the oil began to break down after about 3500 miles. I never even paid attention to the odometer. I just drove until I didn't feel comfortable with it anymore. Again, is that bad? I don't know, but the drop in viscosity was real.

With the cooler it feels fine right up to the 7500 mile interval. I've gone over because, again, I don't really keep track. I just go by feel. I wish I had done UOA before the cooler but I only considered it after I got involved with this forum.

Thanks for the information. Since we are both in WA (looked up Vantucky; that is hilarious), I can relate. My oil changes have all been around 3k. My problem here is the oil take so long to heat up. Sometimes driving around town I feel like I need to baby it because my coolant is at operating levels, but my engine oil is barely registering.

The OEM WRX oil cooler someone posted looks good as it can heat the oil up too. I'll just have to watch temps like a hawk this summer.

...Vantucky...still laughing.

:lol: per Urban Dictionary

;) :cheers: I love Vantucky. Wouldn't want to live anywhere else.

I'm up in Snohomish and it sounds very much like Vantucky...especially the further East you go. But I love it!

You could always go with the Jackson Racing dual rad/oil cooler setup. It is far more functional then the forester oil cooler as an oil cooler but will also warm up the oil.

How much of a PITA are they to install?

A bit more then a stand alone air to oil exchanger. I haven't done one before but I imagine you could get away with installing without pulling off the bumper cover. Getting to the radiator is not too bad in these cars.

I'm not sure how much weight to put on the oil warming part of the JR's mission statement. Their oil cooler sits in the radiator and the water in the radiator is only going to get warm when the thermostat opens and that may take a while in cold weather.

If someone is really interested in temp "regulation," the best choice is still probably the Subie unit. They just need to make sure to plumb the cooler into the coolant bypass circuit. That water warms up much quicker than the radiator. Some implementations of the Subie cooler plumb it into the lower radiator hose. I don't think that is going to circulate water until the thermostat opens either.

Agreed. For my DD, no track application, my bigger fear is goosing it when the oil is too cold, not too hot.

I run the JR dual cooler and while it has been perfect for my application I don't feel that it has much impact on warming up, if any. My car doesn't get driven in the winter, so I can't say if it would be more effective in truly cold temps. The coldest I've run in is the odd 40F-ish day in spring or fall.

My car is NA, catless header without any kind of wrap or heat shielding. On the street it hangs around 190F, on the highway it's usually between 200 and 205 depending on ambient. On track I'm stable in the 230s for full 20 minute+ sessions, down from 255+ after two hot laps prior to install.

Oil pressure
 

I didn't intend that to mean the JR dual's sole benefit was warming up the oil. I should have broken it down farther to say the JR setup has better temp regulation then an air to oil, but more thermal capacity then the oe forester unit, which I really don't consider much of a cooler.



Here is a shot of my water temp gauge after 3 hours of freeway driving in 50 degree weather. My oil temp only got to 140F using air to oil cooler. I am pretty sure the JR setup would have given me more "normal" temps, not that I really consider this that much of an issue periodically.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...81e4a75a02.jpg

My completely arbitrary protocol is to keep the oil pressure as low as I can while still being able to drive until I can drive reasonably normally with it under about 100 PSI. The dump valve opens at 140 PSI and I've proven to myself that it's easy to hit that right after cold start when everything's super tight. Not that I'd ever want to but it doesn't take long for the engine to loosen up enough to redline safely.


It's a tight engine but it doesn't need to be babied. Maybe all modern engines are like that. Dunno.

My cooler is mounted on the JDL bash bar, made some tabs for it and welded them on.

Also thinking of upgrading mishimoto shroud fans to Spal ones. These temps are steady at 205

Def, getting enough air flow then. I know the under tray mounted setups like mine get masked a bit by the bumper. The fans are not really going to make a difference unless you can force them on in stop/go traffic, and won't really make any difference moving. Vented hood will make a much larger difference. What also made a difference on my car was a splitter, car run runs much cooler with that on though I have a feeling it may not be as noticeable if my hood wasn't ducted already.

This. No one know if 40psi of oil pressure @ 7400rpm, 270F oil temp, is enough for the FA20.

All synthetic oils on the market today should be able to last 3500OCI with ease. I don't see how an oil cooler will have any tangible effects unless we are talking about a mostly tracked car.

I'm sure it's fine. Oil's cheap and I love my machine so if my ears and ass say it's time to change, it's getting changed. ;)

Tracked or not has little to do with it. If the engine is operated in the upper range, the oil will get hot. Period. Just cruise in fourth gear for a couple minutes and watch the oil temp. Tangible effects right there.

Likewise. I change my oil every 3500 miles as well. But I think under "normal" street operation, I just don't see an oil degrading to the point where you can physically feel a difference (sounds/vibrations)? I did noticed smoother operation when I went from 0-20 to 5-30. And I do hoon my cars on the street.

Oil pressure
 

Wow you guys love wasting oil I guess. My German cars see 10-15k mile intervals (as per documentation and the computer’s oil life algorithm) and they’re fine.

Any decent synthetic should be fine to 7500 miles at the very low end.