Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB
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Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=41)
-   -   Oil pressure (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145355)

BrahmaBull1990 05-18-2021 09:16 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding (Post 3433905)
I'm not sure how much weight to put on the oil warming part of the JR's mission statement. Their oil cooler sits in the radiator and the water in the radiator is only going to get warm when the thermostat opens and that may take a while in cold weather.

If someone is really interested in temp "regulation," the best choice is still probably the Subie unit. They just need to make sure to plumb the cooler into the coolant bypass circuit. That water warms up much quicker than the radiator. Some implementations of the Subie cooler plumb it into the lower radiator hose. I don't think that is going to circulate water until the thermostat opens either.
Agreed. For my DD, no track application, my bigger fear is goosing it when the oil is too cold, not too hot.

deca 05-18-2021 09:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding (Post 3433905)
I'm not sure how much weight to put on the oil warming part of the JR's mission statement. Their oil cooler sits in the radiator and the water in the radiator is only going to get warm when the thermostat opens and that may take a while in cold weather.

If someone is really interested in temp "regulation," the best choice is still probably the Subie unit. They just need to make sure to plumb the cooler into the coolant bypass circuit. That water warms up much quicker than the radiator. Some implementations of the Subie cooler plumb it into the lower radiator hose. I don't think that is going to circulate water until the thermostat opens either.
I run the JR dual cooler and while it has been perfect for my application I don't feel that it has much impact on warming up, if any. My car doesn't get driven in the winter, so I can't say if it would be more effective in truly cold temps. The coldest I've run in is the odd 40F-ish day in spring or fall.

My car is NA, catless header without any kind of wrap or heat shielding. On the street it hangs around 190F, on the highway it's usually between 200 and 205 depending on ambient. On track I'm stable in the 230s for full 20 minute+ sessions, down from 255+ after two hot laps prior to install.

NoHaveMSG 05-18-2021 09:42 PM
Oil pressure
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding (Post 3433905)
I'm not sure how much weight to put on the oil warming part of the JR's mission statement. Their oil cooler sits in the radiator and the water in the radiator is only going to get warm when the thermostat opens and that may take a while in cold weather.



If someone is really interested in temp "regulation," the best choice is still probably the Subie unit. They just need to make sure to plumb the cooler into the coolant bypass circuit. That water warms up much quicker than the radiator. Some implementations of the Subie cooler plumb it into the lower radiator hose. I don't think that is going to circulate water until the thermostat opens either.


I didn't intend that to mean the JR dual's sole benefit was warming up the oil. I should have broken it down farther to say the JR setup has better temp regulation then an air to oil, but more thermal capacity then the oe forester unit, which I really don't consider much of a cooler.



Here is a shot of my water temp gauge after 3 hours of freeway driving in 50 degree weather. My oil temp only got to 140F using air to oil cooler. I am pretty sure the JR setup would have given me more "normal" temps, not that I really consider this that much of an issue periodically.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...81e4a75a02.jpg

Ultramaroon 05-18-2021 11:47 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990 (Post 3433945)
Agreed. For my DD, no track application, my bigger fear is goosing it when the oil is too cold, not too hot.
My completely arbitrary protocol is to keep the oil pressure as low as I can while still being able to drive until I can drive reasonably normally with it under about 100 PSI. The dump valve opens at 140 PSI and I've proven to myself that it's easy to hit that right after cold start when everything's super tight. Not that I'd ever want to but it doesn't take long for the engine to loosen up enough to redline safely.


It's a tight engine but it doesn't need to be babied. Maybe all modern engines are like that. Dunno.

Limitless_BRZ 05-19-2021 12:03 AM
My cooler is mounted on the JDL bash bar, made some tabs for it and welded them on.

Limitless_BRZ 05-19-2021 12:07 AM
Also thinking of upgrading mishimoto shroud fans to Spal ones. These temps are steady at 205

NoHaveMSG 05-19-2021 10:15 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limitless_BRZ (Post 3433987)
My cooler is mounted on the JDL bash bar, made some tabs for it and welded them on.
Def, getting enough air flow then. I know the under tray mounted setups like mine get masked a bit by the bumper. The fans are not really going to make a difference unless you can force them on in stop/go traffic, and won't really make any difference moving. Vented hood will make a much larger difference. What also made a difference on my car was a splitter, car run runs much cooler with that on though I have a feeling it may not be as noticeable if my hood wasn't ducted already.

Petah78 05-19-2021 01:26 PM
This. No one know if 40psi of oil pressure @ 7400rpm, 270F oil temp, is enough for the FA20.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 3433823)
Spec/test oil temp is 176 F (80 C). The whole boiling thing is just wrong. We don't bake our clothes to dry them. Oil pressure drops off sharply as temp increases but here's the rub. Is that bad? We really don't know because the operating limits aren't published.
All synthetic oils on the market today should be able to last 3500OCI with ease. I don't see how an oil cooler will have any tangible effects unless we are talking about a mostly tracked car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 3433823)
I can say this for sure. Before my oil cooler, I could literally hear/feel my engine begin to rattle (queue the flamers) as the oil began to break down after about 3500 miles. I never even paid attention to the odometer. I just drove until I didn't feel comfortable with it anymore. Again, is that bad? I don't know, but the drop in viscosity was real.

With the cooler it feels fine right up to the 7500 mile interval. I've gone over because, again, I don't really keep track. I just go by feel. I wish I had done UOA before the cooler but I only considered it after I got involved with this forum.

Ultramaroon 05-19-2021 02:51 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petah78 (Post 3434129)
All synthetic oils on the market today should be able to last 3500OCI with ease. I don't see how an oil cooler will have any tangible effects unless we are talking about a mostly tracked car.
I'm sure it's fine. Oil's cheap and I love my machine so if my ears and ass say it's time to change, it's getting changed. ;)

Tracked or not has little to do with it. If the engine is operated in the upper range, the oil will get hot. Period. Just cruise in fourth gear for a couple minutes and watch the oil temp. Tangible effects right there.

Petah78 05-19-2021 03:24 PM
Likewise. I change my oil every 3500 miles as well. But I think under "normal" street operation, I just don't see an oil degrading to the point where you can physically feel a difference (sounds/vibrations)? I did noticed smoother operation when I went from 0-20 to 5-30. And I do hoon my cars on the street.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 3434149)
I'm sure it's fine. Oil's cheap and I love my machine so if my ears and ass say it's time to change, it's getting changed. ;)

Tracked or not has little to do with it. If the engine is operated in the upper range, the oil will get hot. Period. Just cruise in fourth gear for a couple minutes and watch the oil temp. Tangible effects right there.

Transport3r 05-19-2021 03:46 PM
Oil pressure
 
Wow you guys love wasting oil I guess. My German cars see 10-15k mile intervals (as per documentation and the computer’s oil life algorithm) and they’re fine.

Any decent synthetic should be fine to 7500 miles at the very low end.

Ultramaroon 05-19-2021 06:50 PM
https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/...gonnapanda.jpg

DarkPira7e 05-19-2021 08:21 PM
In previous cars (e36 and 3000gt vr4) the oil change interval depended on usage. The vr4 turned Mobil 1 5w30 into water within 1200 miles of really hard driving. E36 got its oil changed before an autocross, or after about 3k, whatever came first.

After I switched to amsoil dominator in the vr4, I managed 3k between intervals and the oil looked like oil still.

After seeing those cars destroy oil (Admittedly, Mobil was shit, but I figured that out on my own) I don't believe in a standard interval unless it's activity based.

BrahmaBull1990 05-19-2021 08:39 PM
With the stupid prices I pay for “add-ons” to this car, it would be pretty lame to draw the line at early oil changes haha


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