That does seem just a touch high to me. Make sure your topped off with oil considering the additional capacity. Also, the turbo will add heat to the system. I run a mishimoto with my supercharger where ambient can be around 100-105 and my cooler usually never goes above 185 (After Cooler) for normal driving.

Are people ever concerned about too cold of oil? Ambient temp here around Seattle hardly ever gets above 80* and that's for a month at most.

It seems operating temp for these oils with 0W-20 is around 100*C or 212*F. This is to ensure you are boiling off any condensation in the motor. I do not plan on adding an oil cooler with my Edelbrock, initially, until I see high temps on normal driving (I do not track). I will be adding a PCV catch-can, though.

It seems like everyone screaming oil coolers are parroting or reps looking to sell them.

I block mine off in the winter. I have a hard time getting my engine up to temp as it is in cooler weather on the street.

I was one of those people. And it was too cold unless you were in bumper to bumper traffic. In normal traffic, during 80F-90F temps, oil temps with a front mount oil cooler were 170-190F. Mine is street driven as well.

I have an oil cooler, I also think it's not needed but, however, I do recommend the OEM oil style oil coolers, its a sandwich plate that cools the oil with the coolant. Perfect for street driven only car. I believe most turbocharged Subarus from the factory have of them.

I cover my oil cooler with a peice of 2mm corflute for daily driving. the oil sits around 100°C. Without the cover it only reached 75°C.

I like this! They look cheap too

Spec/test oil temp is 176 F (80 C). The whole boiling thing is just wrong. We don't bake our clothes to dry them. Oil pressure drops off sharply as temp increases but here's the rub. Is that bad? We really don't know because the operating limits aren't published.

I can say this for sure. Before my oil cooler, I could literally hear/feel my engine begin to rattle (queue the flamers) as the oil began to break down after about 3500 miles. I never even paid attention to the odometer. I just drove until I didn't feel comfortable with it anymore. Again, is that bad? I don't know, but the drop in viscosity was real.

With the cooler it feels fine right up to the 7500 mile interval. I've gone over because, again, I don't really keep track. I just go by feel. I wish I had done UOA before the cooler but I only considered it after I got involved with this forum.

Thanks for the information. Since we are both in WA (looked up Vantucky; that is hilarious), I can relate. My oil changes have all been around 3k. My problem here is the oil take so long to heat up. Sometimes driving around town I feel like I need to baby it because my coolant is at operating levels, but my engine oil is barely registering.

The OEM WRX oil cooler someone posted looks good as it can heat the oil up too. I'll just have to watch temps like a hawk this summer.

...Vantucky...still laughing.

:lol: per Urban Dictionary

;) :cheers: I love Vantucky. Wouldn't want to live anywhere else.

I'm up in Snohomish and it sounds very much like Vantucky...especially the further East you go. But I love it!

You could always go with the Jackson Racing dual rad/oil cooler setup. It is far more functional then the forester oil cooler as an oil cooler but will also warm up the oil.

How much of a PITA are they to install?

A bit more then a stand alone air to oil exchanger. I haven't done one before but I imagine you could get away with installing without pulling off the bumper cover. Getting to the radiator is not too bad in these cars.

I'm not sure how much weight to put on the oil warming part of the JR's mission statement. Their oil cooler sits in the radiator and the water in the radiator is only going to get warm when the thermostat opens and that may take a while in cold weather.

If someone is really interested in temp "regulation," the best choice is still probably the Subie unit. They just need to make sure to plumb the cooler into the coolant bypass circuit. That water warms up much quicker than the radiator. Some implementations of the Subie cooler plumb it into the lower radiator hose. I don't think that is going to circulate water until the thermostat opens either.