Tips for a Newbie?
 

Hey so I'll be changing my headers, overpipe, and frontpipe soon. It's my first time working under the car and would love any tips anyone might have!

I've heard the overpipe is hard to do, but in what sense exactly? Getting it out or in?

And what order should I do it in, headers, then overpipe then front. Or drop everything out first and do the overpipe first?

Any help is greatly appreciated :)

Watch some tutorials on youtube to have a general idea of what to do.

Make sure you have all the necessary tools before starting the install.

Take your time and make sure everything is seated properly.

The OP is somewhat of a pain to take off/put on. To make it easier, drop everything out and install the OP first. If you need more room, you may need to loosen the engine mounts and lift the motor. I believe there are some tutorials on here on how to do it.
If you are not comfortable doing this, have someone with experience do it or bring it to a professional.

First and foremost is to have a SAFE way to get it off the ground. I am sure there are some very tiny skinny people that do it on the ground but most just won't do it.

Front pipe is just 2 bolts on either end and one bolt mounted to the chassis (if I remember correctly). Pretty much the easiest pipe on the exhaust to swap. Disassemble that first and see where it gets you.

There are also plenty of header swapping vids to study. Words only go so far, for me at least. Much more educational to watch video of the swap.

Get you some penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Soak that bad boy up before you break the bolts loose.

Header off, then overpipe. New overpipe on then the header.
Make sure you have new gaskets for everything. Chasing exhaust leaks is a PITA.

Unbolt the passenger engine mount, and lift the engine via the oil pan to get the overpipe out. 5 minutes of effort and it comes out. Make sure to use a piece of wood or a hockey puck between the jack and oil pan as a cushion

LOL I wonder what the hockey puck availability is in Qatar.

When assembling everything together, don't torque anything down, leave it hand tight at most. This gives you actual wiggle room if sealing surfaces aren't lining up perfectly. Don't bother putting the gaskets on until everything is figured out and ready to be tightened down for good- last thing you want to do is ruin gaskets.

Also, lay towels down to keep falling hardware from bouncing far (if you're on a hard surface like pavement or concrete)

Well then there is at least one puck available.

I think I'll try it out, worst case is I have to be loud as hell and drive to a garage with just headers:lol:

Last time I had the car lifted obviously had the jack stands, then stacks of bricks under each wheel. This time will take the wheels off and use them as a worst case scenario. Rather a set of new wheels than a new upper half body. I'm a skinny dude so clearance isn't too big an issue :)

Hoping Wd-40 will do, won't be able to find pb blaster here and even if I did it'd be far too overpriced to justify the cost

Not gonna lie I've never seen one anywhere (but I've never specifically gone to look for them). I'm sure of a few sports shops would have them, but it being such a niche thing for this part of the world they'd probably be like $15 each. I have a few beams of wood I'll just chop one to size. I'm a bit worried tho because that wood is about half as thick as the blocks I see others use, is the wood prone to exploding under weight?

ahaha back in the school days had friends that were on that team. Good times:wub: