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-   Engine, Exhaust, Transmission (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=8)
-   -   Possibly noob question from a not so noob manual driver (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145130)

Ultramaroon 05-10-2021 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T_Squadrito (Post 3431278)
Here is a video of the shifter play https://drive.google.com/file/d/1azC...ew?usp=sharing

On video it feels like a lot less play so maybe I am just tweaking, but I just checked my friends car who also has a honda and he has no play in neutral which is what I am used to. I measured out around 14mm of play. I measured from far right position of play to far left usng the gear notches on the knob to measure. Maybe my experience with 4 manual cars just isnt that extensive. There are a lot of cars and im no mechanic. Just seems a little crazy to me.

Oh, that's fine. I could take a video showing you the same play directly on the selector rod of my nearly pristine original transmission. If you were to play with the linkage from underneath the car, you would see that all the lash comes from inside the transmission. I would be concerned if there was any longitudinal lash. Even then, just some inexpensive nylon bushings to replace. If those bushings were worn, the first consequence would be interference from the first and/or second gear gates. The same interference is felt when the gear lever top plate is misaligned.

If you lift the reverse lockout foot you can distinctly feel the width of the first and second gear gates. The lockout foot rides against a shoulder on the top plate. That's why alignment is so important.

Be gentle, especially with the engine off. Expect the gear selector hubs to clash with the gears. Soft bronze balk rings are delicate. ;)

T_Squadrito 05-31-2021 09:31 PM

I am gonna dig up this old thread real fast to say, I havn't gotten around to the slave cylinder change yet, however, I adjusted the clutch pedal to get rid of some of the dead space and it was the best thing I ever did. That alone made an absolutely HUGE impact on the feeling of the car. I pushed it really far so it took longer than the typical 10 minutes. I got it about 2mm below the brake pedal and it was grinding a little if I pushed first really hard so I dialed it back a turn and a half and it seems to be grabbing fine now. Best thing I have done so far. I have put a bit of work into the car since I started this thread and none of it comes close to the 45 minutes to adjust, test drive, and do an additional adjustment and unlike a lot of the other work it was no added cost. Remember how I said I couldnt get a rolling start without gas because of the texture of the ground? yeah thats no longer true. I can get a rolling start just fine. My clutch control and shifting is instantly about a million times better. I cant wait to see what happens when I get the new slave cylinder in. I know it's an easy swap but I want to do it when I have a friend to help out but its been pretty dead lately so it's on the backburner still for just a little longer.

Ultramaroon 05-31-2021 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T_Squadrito (Post 3437614)
My clutch control and shifting is instantly about a million times better. I cant wait to see what happens when I get the new slave cylinder in. I know it's an easy swap but I want to do it when I have a friend to help out but its been pretty dead lately so it's on the backburner still for just a little longer.

Consider that being so close to the grab point, there might be some drag when it heats up. Just be aware. It's always a very bad thing to have to force it in gear. Maybe not immediately but it's horrible for the transmission in the long run.

T_Squadrito 05-31-2021 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 3437630)
Consider that being so close to the grab point, there might be some drag when it heats up. Just be aware. It's always a very bad thing to have to force it in gear. Maybe not immediately but it's horrible for the transmission in the long run.

After adjusting it after the test drive I have about maybe 2cm before grabbing. No problems getting into gear at all even the first time around. It was just on hard take offs (I put the car through its paces during the test drive to be safe and im glad I did because I probably would have missed it otherwise.) I just dialed back the bolt on the master about 1 and 3/4 turns and it put it back just about shy of flush with the break pedal and no issues on the second test drive. I was definitely aggressive with the first one. I did the standard first neutral reverse and slow shift test while I was in our parking lot and had no issues so until the test drive it seemed fine. Like I said, glad I worked it a bit during the test drive. just a simple 1 3/4 correction fixed that right up and it is much much much easier to drive now and I am not lifting my leg til it hits the steering column to shift anymore which is great (I have the torso of someone 4'6" but the legs and arms of someone 6'. Questions are asked when my 5'9" self can reach things on the top shelf that people taller than me cant lol.

Ultramaroon 05-31-2021 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T_Squadrito (Post 3437632)
After adjusting it after the test drive I have about maybe 2cm before grabbing.

Haha.... the long-legged struggle. I get that. You're probably a good candidate for the steering column extension. I love mine.


2 cm is excellent. :thumbsup:

T_Squadrito 05-31-2021 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 3437644)
Haha.... the long-legged struggle. I get that. You're probably a good candidate for the steering column extension. I love mine.


2 cm is excellent. :thumbsup:

Haha. I may actually look into it when I do my wheel. Mine is pealing (guessing the last owner left it in the sun a lot. Car did come from a southern state so who knows). It's weird because my legs are long and even with longer arms if I sit where my legs are comfortable my arms are at a weird length and if I sit where my arms are comfortable then my legs get all crammed in there. The adjustment helped a LOT with that so at least now it's not as awkward. Comparatively, it's even good. I do suspect a steering column extension might be useful.

churchx 06-01-2021 02:02 AM

If you want to retain stock airbag, then 949 Racing 50mm steering spacer is good option. Worth getting control stalks extensions with it though, as with steering wheel being offset you cannot easily manipulate them as is w/o taking hands off wheel anymore.

T_Squadrito 06-01-2021 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by churchx (Post 3437675)
If you want to retain stock airbag, then 949 Racing 50mm steering spacer is good option. Worth getting control stalks extensions with it though, as with steering wheel being offset you cannot easily manipulate them as is w/o taking hands off wheel anymore.

That's good to know. Thank you. Ill bookmark that one. Yeah, I do want to retain the airbag. I am looking at this wheel specifically to retain my airbag https://www.ftspeed.com/part/ty86-b1...ing-13-16-ft86 and the only thing holding me back is the number of people who claim to have damaged their clock spring. I know there is a possibility they just did it wrong but I also am keeping in mind the possibility that they didn't and I am just not in a position to replace a clock spring also if something goes wrong, at this point. Theoretically it's easy to not damage the clock spring, just keep it seated and don't tug on the airbag leads, but still, a bit more risk than I want to take on at this moment.


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