DIY-ability for oil coolers and labor cost for installation
 

Hi friends,

Excited to start my second season of HPDE after sitting 2020 out due to the pandemic.

My BRZ survived 5 track days in 2019 with no oil cooler and just 5w30 oil. Playing with fire, I know.

I don't have my own garage. Instead, I have a shared garage in the apartment building. The building managers are somewhat chill about me working on my cars, but they probably won't appreciate it if my cars are on jacks for days on end (although I suspect OCs wont require putting the car up, but you get my point).

Are oil coolers fairly simple to do with the help of a buddy? I am not the greatest mechanic and take a long time just doing brake pads and brake fluids ( i go super slowly to make sure i don't tmess anything up)

I have been eyeing the Jackron Racing Dual because i think it fits my usage case the best, but it also looks like the hardest to install...

Should I do it myself? If I don't, what's a reason range for cost of labor?

It's not very hard at all. Everything just kinda bolts together

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The Jackson Racing Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler install is time consuming but no particular part of the install is very difficult. If you're just an average wrencher, I'd recommend taking a whole day to do it just in case you hit any snags. The only hangup I hit was that my 27mm socket to undo the oil filter mount was too thick (cheap HF impact socket), but after some passes on the belt sander it was small enough to undo the bolt.

You have to remove bumper which is easier if you jack the front up. I would plan for a day. As stated it's not really hard. I would imagine a shop could get it done in 3ish or so hours so whatever labor is per hour.

I'm happy with my Jackson dual rad. The clearance between the air box and hose connections is tight. It fits close to the oil filler cap too. I bent the ac lines so nothing would rub. Highest temps that I've seen were at VIR a couple of years ago. 100+ ambient temps and 235-240 oil temps during afternoon sessions. 50/50 antifreeze mix. n/a engine. I installed mine with engine install but I can see it would take most of a day.

You don’t “need” to jack up front to take bumper off but it helps.
You could always drop back down once bumper on so to not “leave” it on stands for days.

First time took me about 3h to get bumper off, each time I was almost twice as fast as before until now its an easy sub 30min job.

Oil cooler is pretty easy and straightforward after bumper is off. JR dual rad is about the same amount of work, but you also need to drain and fill the coolant after.

Thanks everyone. Bit the bullet and am excited to put it on this weekend.

Did you all use thread sealants on the M22 threads? It looks like the sandwitch plate itself has four M22 ports: two of them are for the AN fittings that go to the oil cooler and back (thus the male AN-10 to M22 adapters), and two of them are to be plugged up with M22 threads plugs (these are for aftermarket sensors, i am guessing?)

I am reading that the AN fittings themselves won't need thread sealants, but I am wondering if I can get away without them for the M22 threads too. I don't want to make a mess and leave a little bit of sealant in the lines...

Any general advise for a no-leak installation? I don't see anything about torque specs for the line fittings in the official manual

AN fittings when torqued precisely shouldn’t technically need it.
But

Ive used Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant, on all fittings on 2 oil coolers and 2 trans coolers, totaling 20 fittings, with zero issues or leaks on any.

Just don’t goop it on and don’t put any on the last 1 1/2 threads at the tip end, assemble per instructions And let it fully cure and dry before adding fluid and using it.

Thread sealant on AN fittings won't do anything because the thread isn't what seals the fitting. If you are worried, there are copper conical inserts you can get that will act as a crush washer on an AN fitting. AN torque specs can be found online. They are standard across all brands. That's part of what makes it "AN". Assuming you can't figure a good way to torque to spec, I'll recommend leaning towards the looser side of "good and tight" because you can tighten them more if you notice seepage. If you overtightened them, they might seep permanently. depending on if the m22 fittings have an oring or not will tell you if you need thread sealant. I suspect they are a form of straight pipe thread which would require sealant. Just rub a SMALL dab around your threads before insertion. You do not need 100% coverage. A little goes a really long way as there is very little space between mating threads

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Thanks everyone!

Re: I will forgo sealant on the ANs, and put sealant on the M22, as per instruction. Suppose I mess up and some sealant did get in the line, does anyone know if the oil lines are upstream or downstream of the oil filter?

I don't recall. Just don't screw up. It's very this thin stuff. Don't worry about it. Anything more than what you can smear most of the way around a single thread is too much. You can simply wipe off the excess. Just don't put it at the end of the thread. Leave a thread or 2 bare before you add sealant. You'll be fine

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That is easy, every fitting has a way to seal. AN fitting have machined fitting that match up and seal. Straight threaded fitting with O rings do not need any sealant, the O ring is the seal. Tapered pipe threads need sealant. I would not use tape on any fitting. I would us teflon dope on pipe threads.