Crush Washer on Drain Plug?
 

Hi guys I'm new here. This may be a stupid question but is the crush washer still on the drain plug? I can't seem to find it in the oil pan so I hope that is the case...

Subaru BRZ 2020 if that helps.

Pick at it. Also possible it's a rubber oring

Yeah I was picking at it but it seemed really tight on the plug. I fished through the oil pan a bit more drained the old oil into a container I had and nothing got caught in the funnel so I'm pretty sure it's there.

I put the plug back on because I wasn't planning on replacing it this time anyway and put some oil in and it seems to be completely sealed. I'll get everything changed and warm the engine up a little bit and check for leaks but it looks like I'm in the clear. (Knock on wood)

Thanks!

I can still see the stock crush washer on there. There is a bit of paint on it which makes it hard to get off intially. I recall using a flathead screwdriver with force and eventually was able to pry it off

Do yourself a favor and install one of these next time.

That appears to be the original, factory oil drain plug with aluminum crush washer still on there (all painted black from the factory). So incredibly easy to get that washer off if you care to do so. As stated above, a very thin flat head screwdriver will get it to release from the oil drain plug itself, then twist it off. If that crush washer is crushed way to much, it can be cut off with diagonal pliers from the oil drain plug...rarely necessary though.

The dealerships like to replace the crush washer every time in order to charge an exorbitant price for a new one AND less chance of error of the tech who has then changed the oil and filter. No absolute need to do so every single oil change on one's own vehicle.

Those crush washers also come in copper as well as aluminum.

Personally I would not recommend the Fumoto oil drain valve, which may not allow all the oil to get out of the engine's oil pan quickly and fully. I also would not recommend (as some do) siphoning the oil from the dip stick tube. You want to get all that oil out very quickly, and with the dirt which comes out with it.

Best to get the engine up to proper operating temperature, then quickly drain the oil, all at once, to be sure it all comes out. Often this means accidentally dropping the oil drain plug into the oil drain pan under the car, as that drain plug is so hot....oh well, don't fret, you can find it by fishing for it. Certainly entire vehicle on a level surface before attempting to drain engine oil.

Do not over torque the oil drain plug, which could strip it's threads or the threads within the oil pan. Do not under torque an oil drain plug. Always keep the tightening wrench in one hand, whilst hand screwing in the oil drain plug with the other hand.... never only hand tighten and possibly forget to tighten with a proper sized combo wrench or socket wrench....in other words...never allow any distraction from getting that oil drain plug properly torqued immediately after it's installed.

When replacing oil filter...be sure to put some oil onto the seal of the new oil filter before installing, and install only as tight as one hand will allow, not wrench tight. Oil filter wrench is only for removal of filter.

This engine takes 5.5 quarts of oil and many of the new cheapo oil drain pans hold less than that, idiots design oil drain pans. Best is a metal pan which will hold up to 6 quarts. The plastic oil drain pans often crack, not worth the money saved....when you must then clean up a big mess on concrete.

https://www.lumax.com/lx-1709. (These items available through Napa and various other sources).

Or Google: Lumax Mfg # LX-1709

Former auto tech here. I've changed oil and filter on vehicles maybe well over 10,000 times.

I hate the aluminum ones, they just keep compressing for what feels like minutes, and the whole time I’m wondering what’s going on and why is this not stopping? Getting flashbacks of cross threading.
I much prefer the copper ones that go from finger tight to torqued in half a turn.

One can never get all of the oil out...

What kind of prices are dealers charging you for these?

I change the crush washer every time. It cost me around $1CAD. The last time I grabbed 2-3 black Subaru oil filters from the dealer close to me the guy just tossed 3 washers in a bag at no charge.

Mann and Mahle include them in most of their cartridge filters even.

Right? The diameter difference between the regular hole and the Fumoto's is not so different that it's somehow trapping extra oil in the pan. But short of letting it drip overnight, you're never getting it all out (and you don't need to).

Once the Fumoto is installed though, you never have to worry about over/under torquing, replacing crush washers, dropping the plug into oil catch tray or any of that.

Yea the Fumoto is very nice for that. The no nipple version is short enough for my peace of mind, the skid plate would have to deflect a lot for the valve to make contact with the ground.

Fumoto valve was one of my first mods and it's great. I recommended it to my co-worker for his Honda family van and he got it for all of his cars.


I've been running no skid plate for 2 years with no problems. Too lazy to mess with the plate right now since I have to modify it to work with my aftermarket headers. Stupid adult responsibilities take priority.

As stated above it’s painted on like that from the factory. You car pry it off with something sharp .