Toyota 86 TRDSE Rotor Question
 

I hope I've understood the rules and am posting in proper forum!

I just had my 50k inspection done and it called for new brake fluid, new pads, oil change and alignment.

Now my flippin brakes do not work. They pulsate when I stop and the rear brakes are squealing. I took it back to the dealership and the tech is intimating that I may need new rotors. All 50k miles are highway and I have never raced the car. This is hogwash yes?

Thx for any insight,
Newbie

Did you bed them in?

Always ask to see the parts(pads in this case) they remove from the car. No way should you have needed pads at 50K unless you are driving two footed.

Thank you for the reply. I did not bed them in ugh.

+1 to bedding the brakes in. Just be careful if it's not behaving consistently. A few good heat cycles should fix the problem, but it's going to be inconsistent at the start.

Rotors are cheap and anytime I change pads I change rotors. You don't have PP brakes?

My front pads were done-zo at 50k. Winmax W3's and SS lines all around.

Those should be the PP brakes.

The pads do wear quicker than regular brake pads, I think. (mine got down to like 35% in roughly... 25k miles? but I did a track day, an autox, and also other fun driving)

yup if its the PP then I would do the new rotors. You want the pads to have a nice new rotor to bed into anyways. The Pulsating leads me to believe the rotors have deposits on them or have un-even wear.

That is surprising, I know my co-worker got close to 100K mostly highway driving. I think he had ST street pads all the way around and did a couple track days with me.

I am not going to compare my usage lol :burnrubber:

Check the rear rotors and see if you have any white or blue spots on the rotor. What happened to me once was I had my 36K service done, they did my brake fluid and adjusted my parking brake, it was adjusted incorrectly and it was dragging causing a vibration and then eventually creating blue and white spots on the rotor.

Did they inspect, measure and resurface the rotors if there's enough there to allow doing so, on a brake lathe like they're supposed to whenever they change pads? Or did they half-ass it like most dealers do and just change the pads out?

Just for your information, I've had great results using Akebono pads in my work vehicle and my 20 year-old Solara and using OEM rotors. Aftermarket replacement rotors just don't hold up to the heat and end up warping prematurely.

Haven't had to touch the brakes on my twin since I got her.