Need advise on tire wear.
 

I normally was running the tires at a hot temp of 33 degrees; but when on the Shenandoah Circuit at Summit Point WV I notice that I was getting a lot of rollover on the front tires. I talked to an instructor and he advised me to increase the temp to 36-38 Hot. So I did and ran a couple laps and the rolling problem seemed to be gone. I used a friends pyrometer and measured the temps after the next session and the temps where within a couple of degrees inner being hotter and outer being the coolest.

A couple weeks later I drove 8 25 minutes sessions on the Summit Point Main Circuit and noticed that the outer edge was being worn at a lot high rate than the inner. Especially the front drivers. Any advice on the correct setup?

2017 BRZ w/PP
Suspension: CSG Tein Flex A coilovers and SPL Rear Lower Control Arm
Wheels: Apex arc 8 17x9 et42
Tires: 245/40R17 Maxxis VR1 S2
Pads: CSG C1 front and Project Mu Club Racer Rear

-- Alignment:
Corner Balanced
Camber: -2.5 Front; -2.0 Rear
Toe: -0.02 Front; 0.12 Rear
Caster: 5.8 Front
Steer Ahead: 0.0
Thrust Angle: -0.01



--Tire Pressure and Pyrometer readings
Longacre 52-50635 AccuTech Economy Pyrometer

All readings taken after a cool down lap and the long drive to the paddock.

Reading directions: FD->FP->RP->RD
Hot PSI; Outer/Middle/Inner Temps

Session 1:
FD: 39; 113/119/125 FP: 38; 109/119/124
RD: 38; 100/108/109 RP: 37; 90/100/111

Session 2:
FD: 38; 128/129/133 FP: 37; 99/111/108
RD: 37; 96/106/106 RP: 37; 82/92/93

lower FP PSI by 1 deg

Session 3:
FD: 40; 130/140/132 FP: 37; 100/112/117
RD: 38; 101/110/111 RP: 37; 93/103/109

lowered FD PSI by 2 degrees

I would add another degree of negative camber. That will probably do it. You will also get some added grip.

More front camber, -3.5 to -4.5 likely much happier, rear could probably go up a touch as well, -2.5 to -3.0

This is where pyro can be very misleading, heat by the time you get back to the pits doesn't reflect where you're using the most tire which is clearly the outside edge. Adjusting for wear pattern should supersede the pyro readings unless you're getting realtime data.

More front camber will help. I used to do 2 events (4 days) and have the tire rotated on the wheel. Then I could run another 4 days. That was with NT01's. Even at 3.5* they would still need to be rotated. 3.5* would also eat up the inside shoulder of my street tires. It's one of the compromises of this strut suspension. No camber gain in a corner like an unequal A arm set up.

Ditto ^^^
Moar front camber. Like -3 minimum, preferably -3.5 to -4

Question for those with more than -3 up front? You using camber plates + crash bolts?

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Yes, but some (most? Idk) camber plates can hit low -3.x alone, every setup is a little different.
Many aftermarket struts are slotted for more adjustability.

Thanks for advice. I'm going to flip the tires and ask the shop to put as much negative camber up to -3.5 front and -3 rear. I'm not sure if my camber plates can get to -3.5 maybe I can get -3.


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Just Raceseng camber plates. Car is lowered 1.25" on Swift SpecR springs, with Bilstein B8 struts/shocks.

I am new to coils and camber plates. Just got my new RCE SS-1 put onto the car. Still dialing in ride height. They mentioned -3.5 is possible on a 30mm drop but they recommend -3 and a 25mm drop. Is there any advantage to or a big difference between -3 and -3.5? My car is also still my daily on sx2 rubber

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-3 should be OK. For me, -3.5 is the sweet spot for track/street, others say -4 or even more is better for the track. -3 is a decent improvement over -2.5 for sure, but I say if you can get -3.5 go for it.

Maybe I will try for 3.2 up front. What are you running in the rear?

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-2.8, just from lowering 1.25" (stock/factory LCAs). Rear camber isn't as important anyway, anything from -2 to -3 I wouldn't worry about it if you don't have adjustability.

With front camber @ 3.5, what is tire wear like for a mostly street driven car with 2 to 3 days of track a year?

Aside from the tire wear how is the handling balance?

I have some basic spc lower control arms.

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Not great, you'll have to compromise somewhere or at only 2-3 events per year maybe adjusting front between Street/track specs could pan out.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/raGSjKQ6Bx9amELP9

I only did 4 events last year, and ran my street tires on day one of each event. With 4 track days on my street tires (245/40-17 Conti ECS) and ~5000 street miles, all at -3.5 front camber, I have even wear across the treads. I did rotate between each track event.

Be aware not all tires are able to rotate in a front to back opposite sides

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I got about 15k miles out of my firestones but they were probably due to be replaced at 10k miles and were sketchy as fuck at the end, alignment varied throughout.

Big change if you're used to getting 60k miles out of your daily tires... It's all perspective.

Hopefully you're not staggered, so swapping front/rear should be no problem.

As for left/right, directional tires *can* be driven in the "wrong" direction without issue. I've done it many times. Tests have shown that running directional tires backwards pretty much doesn't make any difference even in standing water. From what I've read a lot of times the directional pattern is more about noise than actual water-handling or hydroplaning resistance.

That said, for *street* usage rotating front/back is fine. However for multiple track days at the same track, you'll want to do the normal rwd tire rotation pattern (or any pattern really that ensures each tire winds up at each corner of the car on a regular basis).