Need some more info on the killer B pickup tube. Does it make much difference in real world? I see other threads where the positive pressure from the pump didn't change noticeably at all. Is it worth $130-150?

I just bought and put the KillerB pickup in as part of my new short block.


Just for reference, here are some pictures of the amount of sealant I had in my engine. I had a new short block at around 54k miles, then the valve spring recall done at around 65k, and my engine spun a rod bearing at 74k due to oil starvation back in July. I was finally able to get around to putting a new short block myself now (almost done!). Because of this alone, I'll be dropping the oil pan after around 1k miles or so to clean out the pickup and the pain, but I think just the killerB being larger will make a big difference.



In the second pic, I tore back the mesh filter to see what was underneath. In the third pic, that's the amount of sealant I shook out of the tube.


https://i.imgur.com/LjVW9hp.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SFnbsHk.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/vmWDtdD.jpg

Do you think replacing the pickup tube with another brand new OEM pickup tube would be just as helpful?

The reason I'm asking is, the OEM tube has a bend, compared to Killer B tube. If Subaru chose to use a straight tube, it would have been cheaper to do so, instead of spending extra dimes for that bend feature. Now it makes me wonder why Subaru would spend more to bend the tube while it could have kept it straight and lower the cost by a few dimes.

It is pretty well outlined with data in @ETM_Shaman's thread which you have already posted in. Who knows why they put the bend in there, it is not necessary.

Yes I think it's probably worthwhile based on all of the data outlined here. Especially with these engines glued together like they are, the bigger tube is probably better.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

I just came across this thread.

Sorry to hear about the couple poor experiences. That's not typical for us an I apologize. We did have customer support issues a while back, between office managers and shipping guy, but it's no excuse.

Subaru did change pan part numbers in the first gen BRZ, and there are some difference vs the WRX as well. One of the things that's different in the length.

As far as the OEM part, they likely did it the way they did to use at little material as possible in the flange and cup section. Or maybe because the OEM tube is so thin, the bend reduces vibration? We could speculate all day long. My bet is on the OEM (which is not Subaru) making the best part, while meeting the minimum specs, for the least dollars.

Our unit is closer to the back of the pan, but there's still ample clearance.

Thanks so much, and for posting!

We had a spot weld failure on our 2015 WRX take out our first FA20 engine in that car :(

There was a lot of silicone in it as well,,,as well as metal bits too :thumbdown:

https://killerbmotorsports.sharepoin...60cQg?e=X7mgvA

https://killerbmotorsports.sharepoin...Yf_cQ?e=Lm1B8y

https://killerbmotorsports.sharepoin...aMkDw?e=faFiex

Unless you build it wrong :bonk:

Which in your instance, we clearly did :(

So sorry we didn't get you sorted out when that happened.

I know we don't make much 1st gen BRZ stuff, but if there's anything we can do to help you forget that experience, please don't hesitate to PM me.

The fact that it was built wrong didn't really upset me, it was the two failed attempts at correcting it. My suggestion still stands from my last message to Nick, pass it on to someone else. I tend to not be interested in dealing with a company after so many problems just trying to resolve one issue.