Wow what an interesting weekend
 

So this weekend I sold my Hellcat and decided to upgrade my Twin. I went ahead and dumped my 15 FRS (which had a very VERY rough life prior to me as you can see from my earlier posts) and traded it up new 2020 stripped down 86 because not counting the trade in I got it for 25k.

So I have some money to play with for the track car... I still have the XP10's and XP8's I never installed on the FRS so those are gonna go on the 86. I'm also gonna get some 57CR's in 17x9 and Falken 660's. Maybe an Oil cooler as well. I'm also thinking about getting a front splitter and wing from Verus just because it'll give me a little more traction.

I'm gonna wait till my track game gets a little stronger before I start going too hard core on suspension.

I could care less about power or sound for at least the time being.

Anyone have any recommendations?

Y not wait for the new twins?


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Sounds like a good plan: brakes, wheels/tires, oil cooler. However, I suggest suspension and alignment (more camber) before aero. My 2¢

lol first year new engine design from Subaru in a track car? pass


Unfortunately won't be able to get much camber with the 17x9's without doing top hats, maybe the pedders and a cam bolt could get you over -2 though, it'll pay for itself by the second set of tires, rear LCA's will be desired eventually might as well only align it once.

So I kinda understand the idea behind camber. The idea is you tilt the tops of the wheels in or give you better traction. I know cam bolts are literally 1/10 of the price of new camber plates.. what’s the big advantage to getting camber plates as opposed to just getting bolts? Why would I need whole new LCA’s?

Also what are top hats?

Sorry for the newb questions... not new to racing... I am new to racing on 4 wheels.

Depending on the tyres you're running an how aggressively you're driving, these things need well in excess of -3 degrees camber on the front not to absolutely ruin the edge of your tyres. With camber bolts you'll get maybe 1-1.5 degrees, then with top mounts you'll get that up to around 3-3.5 degrees depending on the mounts.

Adjustable top mounts are mounts for the top of the shock that can move where the top of the shock is located. This gives you additional camber and caster adjustment. They generally come with a set of coil over suspension, although you can just buy the top mounts by themselves.

If you want to go above 3.5 degrees, you'd need to get front lower control arms.

This is all in my experience with Whiteline camber bolts and shockworks coilovers/adjustable top mounts running z221 semis on the track with likely too aggressive a driving style.

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Camber plates offer more range, as mentioned -3 is a nice starting point for the front, I'm at -4 right now which you can't get with just bolts, as above suspension choice dictates what you need to do to get an aggressive alignment, lcas aren't necessary to hit -5 if the struts are designed for it.
Also given your planned wheel choice you will be limited by wheel to spring perch clearance when using camber bolts, you will not be able to hit -3 without camber plates or a camber adding top hat like pedders.

The rear is not camber adjustable from the factory, you need adjustable lower control arms to align the rear properly on this car.
This does the job for most people:
https://www.spcalignment.com/compone...tion&pid=67660

Top hats are the plates that mount the damper to the chassis, just another name for them. Camber adjustable top hats might be more proper then camber plates but meh who cares.

Useful thread
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show....php?p=2600171

Here is what I would do to be honest in this order:

Oil Cooler
Coils with Camber: Look at RCE SS-1s or CSG Tien Flex A's(do it once and be done)
Rear LCA's
Track Alignment at a good shop (aim for -3 up front and -2 or -2.1 rear)
Wheel and tire Package 17x9 and a 235-245 size tire
Use Carbotech's for Track. Get second pair of rotors to swap with the pads so you can re-use stock pads on the street(quiet and dust free)
Brake Ducts

Don't mess with Aero yet.

My 0.02: rear LCAs in my case were unnecessary. I'm at -2.7 rear camber at -1.25", pretty much right where I want to be.

If you're going to run any sort of Aero package the stock suspension is not enough to handle the amount of downforce being generated. For camber, compression and rebound valving, spring rate...etc

With that being said, I think Aero is a pretty big step from a light track build to something a bit more serious.

If I go with the CSG Tien's and add LCA's... I don't need camber plates anymore then do I?

Yes correct because they already come with camber plates

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Tein flex Z also come with camber plates and are around $800 a set if you are looking for a bargain.

there really is only 2 possibility IMO

camber bolts and swapping the oe crash bolt will give -2 to -2.3 front camber and while it isn't ideal, it is more than enough camber not to screw tires up and will cost a few bucks only. You can actually get very much thread temperatures with this spec and the right pressure, driving and track. An advantage of OE coils is keeping the rear camber low and keeping good rotation, hence not needing rear LCA. I ran this setup a couple years and it is a lot of fun and great for learning. You cannot lower without rear LCA for any track duties as the rear camber curve is way too aggresive and the car will loose all of its playfullness. If you get coils, get rear LCA to dial out some camber; rear cambers kills this car. Also, camber plates are a liability and not worth it; its either the low buck camber bolt or full coilover, do not waste time nor cash on camber plates individually.

As suggested, getting Tein Flex w camber plates and rear LCA is great, but totally unnecessary at this point; though it is much smarter than any intermediary.

That’s a HUGE help! Thanks!

Spend more and do it right. The OEM dampers are pretty darn good. Lowering springs, peddler top hats, 1 crash bolt and some rear LCA can get you a pretty good setup for cheap without reading the bank.

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If you're lowering the car and tracking it, you probably don't need aftermarket LCAs. I'm lowered 1.25", running -3.5 to -3.9 degrees front, rears are at -2.8 from lowering. Works great at the track.

B.s. If you're tracking hard you want some rear camber as well as up front. It doesn't "kill" the car, I love dailying mine and tracking it, most fun car I've owned overall.

I'm running Raceseng camber plates up front to get all the camber I need there. While running them with lowering springs and stock struts did not work out that great (not enough strut bump travel) , current setup with Bilstein B8s is working out great, street and track.

Its funny how some people think spending a lot of money is what it takes to go fast.

This likely has more to do with people's choice in spring rates than rear camber.

I meant if you going to buy coils, spend a bit more than 800$ unless your looking mostly street.