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Tatsu333's 2020 BRZ Sport Tech RS
EDIT 2025.09.27: Updated mods list again
EDIT 2023.10.25: Updated this first post to include the current mods list and the most current photo to compare with the beginning of the journey. Original first post included below... ;) EDIT 2023-03-03: I guess I should kind of say what the idea behind this car is for me, so here goes. It's my daily driver year-round, including some frequent runs down some fun back roads with less-than-ideal pavement, and will see the track a few times per year. So the goal for me is to make this car as capable and comfortable on twisty back roads as possible in all but the worst road conditions, and have it still be enjoyable (or at least "better than tolerable") in daily driving as well. So - no rock-hard track suspension or lots of rigid bracing, loud exhaust or peaky power. I'm looking more for a supple, stable and grippy chassis with a (relatively) flexible powerband, and enough power to have fun but not easily overwhelm the grip / traction. Current Mods List: Suspension/Brakes:
Wheels/Tires:
Powertrain:
Exterior:
Interior:
Planned Future Mods List: Suspension/Brakes:
Wheels/Tires:
Powertrain:
Exterior:
Interior:
Removed / Retired Mods List:
CURRENT PHOTOS (after springs and top mounts installed and settled): https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w ...and another recent shot showing the rear with the exhaust tip extenders installed: https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w ORIGINAL POST: https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w Our new 2020 BRZ Sport Tech RS in Pure Red on the showroom floor. We take delivery this week! I've been shopping these cars since they first came out back in 2013, but just couldn't pull the trigger for one reason or another. Got as close as putting a deposit down on a 2017 Inazuma Edition (Series.Yellow in the US), but backed out. I'm not a fan of the look of the 2nd gen, even though I'm sure that dynamically it will be a superior vehicle, and this was going to be the last opportunity to buy a 1st gen BRZ new, so the time finally came to "fish or cut bait"...LOL. I have some mods planned, but they may take a while...will update here with each mod I do. ;) |
Good choice, and the best colour as well.
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Picked up our new BRZ today!
https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w ...and just a few hours later, the first mod goes on - Grimmspeed Hood Lift Kit! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w |
...AND...as I posted the picture, I realized I have the brackets on the wrong sides. The bolt side is supposed to be the inner side...LOL. I'll fix it tomorrow. ;)
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OK - let's try this again...Grimmspeed Hood Struts, installed the right way around:
https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w Mod #2: Swapped out the stock 215/45-17 Michelin Primacy HP's for 225/45-17 Pirelli P-Zero All Season Plus (from my Tiburon): https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w Mod #3: Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace. Had a minor panic when I dropped one of the bolts and it fell down between the aluminum under-panel and the cross-member. Ended up popping the clips on the plastic shroud and was able to get to it, but what should have been a 10-minute job ended up taking 45 to an hour, and a lot of swearing...LOL! Here's the pic: https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w Finally, here's a shot with my new BRZ in the foreground, and my 2006 Hyundai Tiburon Tuscani (which I've owned since new, and it now only has 106,000 kms / 66,000 miles on it) in the background: https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w Having driven them back to back on the exact same set of tires, I can say that my Tiburon is definitely faster and corners harder than my BRZ stock, but the Tiburon has 14+ years of tweaking and tuning behind it to get it there. It was definitely a fun project, but the BRZ has a LOT more potential, and I no longer have to deal with 14-year-old car problems. ;) |
Next couple of mods - car just came back from getting the Xpel paint protection film put on the front bumper, full hood, front quarter fenders and mirrors.
Now that's done, I can finally mount my front license plate with the Grimmspeed License Plate Relocation Kit: https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w ...and my Weathertech floor liners (for the front row only) also arrived today: https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w |
A couple more mods done today. This will probably be it for a little while, though I do have a couple more things waiting to be installed (STI Short Shift Kit, OEM autodimming rear view mirror w/compass). I want to just spend some time DRIVING the car and getting used to it! ;)
Scion FR-S OEM Splash Guards (front and rear): https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w OEM / STI Front Underspoiler: https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...g?format=2500w All installed with help from justinco's YouTube videos: https://youtu.be/MH6LzryETZk https://youtu.be/vR9McA67ptU |
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One note RE: installing the front lip - rather than stepping up in drill bit sizes, I used a 3/8" brad point drill bit (a woodworking bit, that has a sharp point in the centre to keep it from wandering and sharp outer edges to score a clean hole edge) and just drilled each hole once. When I use those type of bits, I always start the hole with drill running in reverse to score the surface/hole edges first, then run it forwards to finish the hole. Worked great on the nice, soft bumper material, but those bits are no good for metal, just an FYI... Also, when installing the rear splash guards, my car didn't have the holes in the bumper edge pre-drilled, but they were very clearly marked, so easily done. |
No pics for this one, but latest mod is replacing all the incandescent bulbs in the interior, license plate lights and reverse lights with Philips Ultinon LED's.
No idea why Subaru would not put LED's in there in the first place, what with the headlights and taillights being full LED on the 2017+ models... Haven't bothered swapping the side marker bulbs yet - I'll wait until I get the JDM clear side markers sometime next year and put amber LED bulbs in them. |
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Oh man, props to you for getting weather mats installed pronto. My carpet is irreversibly damaged and has the dreaded salt hump.
Best car, best color... great work! I'd say your patience was rewarded |
Again, no photos for this one, but next mod is done...sort of.
Since my business is currently closed due to another COVID shutdown, I decided to use my "free time" to move ahead with a couple of things I was going to leave until the summer. First up, I installed the STI short-throw shifter...but I ran into some issues. I followed this DIY video, which was very helpful: https://youtu.be/Lwc-51b3CRo Everything was going really well. I even managed to get the accursed dust boot on pretty smoothly, and I had gotten to the stage of reinstalling the reverse lockout collar, but something was not right. Turned out, when inserting the new shifter through the base, because I pushed down on the lever itself (instead of seating it with the white plastic collar), the "ball" had popped free of the plastic collar, so I had to undo everything again...and tore the damn dust boot in the process. :bonk: Then, when reassembling everything (sans dust boot - I have a new one on order from the local dealer), I somehow managed to push out the plastic bushing and O-ring from inside the bottom of the shift lever. FML...out it all came again, then back it all went. Long story short, it's now all reinstalled, but without the dust boot. Again, I have a new one on order from the dealer, and I think I may try to install it from under the car instead of fighting with it all again. I know it will be a pain working around the driveshaft, but I'm fed up with trying it the other way. SO - word to the wise: when installing the new shift lever, DO NOT push down on the lever itself to get it seated! Instead, seat it by pushing down on the white plastic collar. The second thing I was going to install today was the auto dimming rearview mirror with compass...but the dealer didn't give me the mounting adapter on the order, so now I have to get THAT as well. :mad0260: To be continued... EDIT: 2021.04.04 - Here are my impressions on the STI Short Shifter: IIRC from when I had them side-by-side, the length of the lever below the pivot point (the ball) is a *tiny* bit longer on the STI unit, and the length of the lever above the pivot point is a *tiny* bit shorter, so I wouldn't expect a massive difference in feel / throw length. Aside from that, the construction of the original and the STI shift levers looks basically identical. In fact, they looked so similar / the differences were so miniscule side-by-side that I didn't bother taking a photo. So, the weird thing is...the shifts definitely feel smoother. Even cold 1-2 shifts feel smoother. Having not measured the shifter throw before and after, I can't give you exact numbers/percentages, but the throw feels a *little* shorter as well, but as expected, not hugely different. Would I do it again? For $600+ CDN, it's an expensive upgrade, but after reading all the problems with rattling, etc. folks had with basically all the aftermarket shifters, I figured it was the way to go. For me, the improved shift smoothness is definitely worth something, but is it worth that much money? Probably not, but I'd likely do it again...because STI...LOL! |
My car just rolled through 1,000 kms yesterday, so I decided the break-in period was over. ;)
I went for a very "spirited" drive on the local back roads and explored the limits a bit, which has given me a bit of direction for the next few mods (which will be a ways off, since I'll have to save up the funds). First off, the Brembo's feel great, but they are SUPER dusty. I need to swap those pads out for something else ASAP. I used PowerStop Z23's on my last car with good results, so I'll probably just grab a set of those and throw them on. Handling wise, the car definitely feels nimble, but it feels a bit too floaty over some of the more roller-coaster like roads I like to drive, with sharp elevation changes in combination with tight turns. It also has a tendency to push then snap into oversteer, though that could be more down to me needing a bit more practice to get the right driving style down. The ride over smaller road imperfections is pretty jiggly as well. On my previous car, I had Koni Sport dampers and H&R Sport springs, and spent some time really dialing in the damping and alignment settings I liked, and it felt PLANTED and neutral. I'm aiming for that same kind of feel with the BRZ, with a mild drop (1-1.25"), adjustable damping and no significant increase in NVH. To that end, I'll be working on getting a streetable amount of negative camber (maybe around -1.75 degrees or so?) with zero toe in the front and then using adjustment to the rear camber with slight toe-in to help get the front/rear balance I'm looking for. Rear LCA's will be a must (I'm thinking about Verus because I like the design better than the eccentric-bolt type, and they're available with a urethane inner mount), and for the front I'll see what I can do with camber bolts and either the Pedders camber/caster top mounts or the top mounts offered by the coilover options below. To improve the damping and get a slight drop, I'm considering either a Koni/H&R combo again, or one of three coilover options - RS*R Sports-i, RCE SuperStreet-1's, or KW V3's. The Koni/H&R combo (with Pedders camber/caster top hats, camber bolts and rear LCA's) should be the least expensive option and I don't really care about not having the height adjustment of the coilovers, but I worry a bit about whether I'll run into clearance issues with certain wheel/tire combos I'm considering (E.G. Konig Freeform 18x8.5" ET44 with 245/35-18's). The KW V3's with Pedders camber/caster top mounts, camber bolts and rear LCA's would be my first choice, in part because of the lifetime warranty and the stainless-steel construction, but they're EXPENSIVE and I don't know that I really need to be able to adjust compression and rebound separately. If only there were a KW V2 available for our cars, I'd be on that in a heartbeat! I don't know the RS*R brand well, but I like the concept of the Sports-i setup with the 2-position camber plate using urethane mounts to minimize any NVH increase. I also like that they can apparently go up to stock ride height, which I'm considering doing in the winter. The few reviews I've read have been good, but I feel that it's likely there's a bunch of unusable adjustment in the 36-way fronts / 24-way rears. Because I don't know the brand, I'm also a bit leery of durability with these. I know RCE is really well-regarded in the community here, and the SS1's are essentially a KW V2 without the stainless sleeves, but my concern with the RCE SS1's is the likelihood of significantly increased NVH with the camber plates, even though they "say" they're not noticeable except on very rare occasions. If anyone wants to chime in with their opinion on the coilover choices, I'd welcome any feedback / suggestions! |
To a certain extent you can't over camber this car, right now I run 3.5 degrees in the front and 2.5 in the rear as long as toe is set correctly you shouldn't have any abnormal wear. This can also vary from tire to tire. I would try for at least 2 or 2.5 in the front if you are on a sporty summer tire!
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