California SMOG Thread
 

As a first year owner, my SMOG has finally come up after 8 years. I figured it would be good to start a thread where people will ask questions and specifics.

What we know to be true is:

• OEM header must be in place
• OEM front pipe must be in place
• OEM tune must be applied to ECU
• OEM intake or CARB approved intake and sticker must be present.
• Exhaust modifications past the front pipe (aka catback) are acceptable.
• OEM PCV connection required
• Sound tube may be required
• OEM Overpipe required
• OBD2 Plugin, No Dyno (low car friendly)
• Average cost seems to be $60 in the Downtown San Jose Area. I found one for $40, so always ask for a discount.
• Crawford power blocks might technically be a fail, but if they're a low key color like silver or black, they will likely go unnoticed.
• SRS Airbag light is okay

Remaining Questions:

• Missing sound tube = fail? (depends on the tech)
• Missing OEM heat shield = fail? (depends on the tech)

Also worth knowing is that after replacing hardware and re-flashing back to stock, your car wont be immediately ready to smog. You'll need to drive around normally for a week or so to ensure all your sensors are re-activated. Arrive at the SMOG station with approx half tank of gas for best chance to pass the EVAP test.

AFAIK, most, if not all OBD2 cars just get plugged in.

When I had my 2008 Yaris smogged, it had a TPMS light on (I never bothered getting another set when I got the Sparco wheels). Smog technician didn't care about that. HOWEVER, he held me there for a good 10 minutes to make sure my Scan Gauge II "wasn't a tuning device" despite me telling him it's a monitoring device since the Yaris did not have a tach or any other informational gauge. He literally looked it up on several forums and finally the SG website.

So, if you have any kind of monitoring device, I'd remove it prior to going to get it smogged just to save yourself the headache and waiting.

As for price, I think around $40 or so, give or take 10 bucks, is good for OBD2 cars.

Yea, most cars aren’t going to get a sniff test. I wonder if you’d see headers affect values on the ECU. If you have nondescript headers that aren’t easy to see in visual, would dude know otherwise?

How about the sound tube on the intake?

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

Technically a closed loop catch can with non-porous (legal) hoses is CARB exempt.

I'll be going into do my smog this year too. I have to pull my flex fuel, DW700cc injectors and Ace header, and I need to refresh the ECU with the CARB tune.

My folks and brother live in a smog exempt area of California, so I've considered doing a lateral title transfer and having them register the car, but I don't know if it is worth the hassle.

The car will probably fail with an aftermarket overpipe because it is illegal to modify any exhaust component from the cats forward without an EO. The sound tube should also be a problem because it is part of the intake system, even though it isn't involved with emissions; it is directly linked with the intake, where the heat shields on the exhaust system could be missing without much recourse. It depends on how much the technician is by-the-books.

You can't have a CEL, but you can have other warning lights on and still pass. This is only an emissions test.

Because the test is just a readiness test and visual inspection, the cost should be cheaper like $35-55. More complicated smog exams on older vehicles might cost more.

I just called around downtown San Jose for prices and a couple shops are around $40, and most are $60. I didn't even think of the sound tube, what a hassle

Silicone is a no go. Not sure if the little cap to cover sound tube would be a flag.

I tried to get my smog done yesterday but the tech said it would not pass because of my Radium catch can on the PCV side. I tried to argue that it's still a closed loop and does not vent to atmosphere. Even Radium says on their website that it should not be an issue for emissions testing. I removed the catch can and went back today and had no issues. I also have a TRD intake which removes the sound tube altogether. I have the tube capped off where it goes through the fire wall.

So were they fine with the TRD intake or did you remove it and put the old one back?

TRD intake is CARB approved.

This. ^ Tech never said anything about the intake. I do have the EO sticker in plain view as well.

How about those that had to swap A newer
Motor into the car? I dropped in a 2016 motor into my 2013 and loaded a 2016 OEM tune into the ecu via Ecutek. Is that going to cause any problems when its plugged in since it wont locate a 2013 map? I know the calibration code is different

Curious whether or not Crawford Power Blocks will pass. Not really an exhaust part but you never know what the techs will or will not see. It would be a pain to have to take them off.