Negotiating on '20 BRZ Limited
 

Howdy,

Currently talking to a dealer about a '20 Limited, PP. They aren't budging much past 29.9 which seems high to me. Was expecting to get to 27K - 28K. Wondering:

1. Am I correct in assuming Limited PP should go in that range?
2. If so how have you gotten there?

i got my 2020 brz limited pp for 29 out the door, told them i want the car and ill buy today if they give me the price. manager came back 5 mins later and shook my hand..


also location might be considered

I got my 2020 tS for $29 in Fairfield.

I'd go to other dealers and get them to bring their OTD price down for you.

I got mine for about 28k or so out the door (2017, but should still be around the same amount). It was 26.5 before taxes and whatnot other fees.

Just look at them in the eye and say, I’ll wait for the 2022 because I don’t have to buy it. You, however, need to sell it. It is costing you money every minute it’s on the floor. It cost me zero dollars if I don’t but it. I win. So either you sell it to me at the XXX price or I’m just going home. And don’t call me to waste my time on negotiations unless you have the price I’m willing to buy it at (reasonable price).

I usually win (90% percent) of the time, especially on older model cars and preface lift cars.

Bottom line is that dealers have to sell cars to keep their business alive. You don’t need a car to keep yourself alive. You win.


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As @blackhawkdown said, you're not there to make friends. Set a boundary and be immovable. Even though they're smiling and happy, they're already fighting to get you to spend the most possible to buffer their commission.

This is war, don't be suckered into your purchase being the difference in his life between Burger King and Olive Garden.

Supply and demand. No lengthy explanation necessary. Do your research, possibly offer them their invoice price (which you must determine elsewhere) and see if they're interested. Expect administration fees to be added if so. I had to pay a few hundred admin just to buy my 18 STI off lease this week.

If they're not interested then say thank you and leave or they might make you an offer, if you are willing to consider it.

AFAIK they have never put any unsold cars through a crusher, or melted them down. From my experience selling Chevys in '87 with Celebritys, Novas, Chevettes and other asst. undesirable crap, credit and interest rates moves product. They don't need to do a "yard sale" to move BRZs though.

If there are other dealers within reasonable distance with inventory, make sure you approach the dealer that has your combo and/or the most stock of BRZs.

This depends on demographic. Dealerships in Vermont have to push hard to move a BRZ, my friend walked out with a 2017 series.yellow PP BRZ for 26k out the door. Almost no dealerships here dare have a BRZ on the lot.

Granted, he's in Cali so they probably flow like water

lol.

do you do the same thing for a deal on a tv? or do you barter with the mcdonalds drive thru on the price?

why are car sales 'war', but most everything else ain't?

You don't know me. I'll cut a nickel in half and say it's all I've got.
Dealerships are haggling territory, just like work at a garage is- you know there's markup and it's up to you if you want to pay the KTLO tax (which I am completely for supporting in small time shops).

Mcdonald's does accept offers, and thus doesn't open up that opportunity. Bet your ass if I rolled through and they asked if the price sounded "all right" I'd probably say no and offer less.

I can understand your perspective and respect it; I'm just offering a different one

They can always say "no".

FWIW I was trying to "get a deal" on a 2020 Performance Pack from May-Aug of 2020 in the bay area.

Dealers were not budging at all from 29.5k-30.5k as I poked around trying to find the spec I wanted and prices were going up in the used market.

I lucked out and found the car I wanted used, hope that helps, good luck.

Was that OTD or before taxes and other fees?

@abyssFT86 - Try getting in contact with Jose Sermonia at Serramonte Subaru if he's still working there, he got me the best deal (at the time) without any haggling whatsoever (basically invoice for the car and invoice for the PP and showed me the paperwork to prove both were lower than the MSRP); no other dealers could come close, except for IIRC Redwood City, which I think tried to sell me the car for about 1000 or 2000 more.

If you’re buying a new car do it over the phone calculate what the price would need to be to get it OTD for msrp or at least 500$ over and negotiate for that. So say MSRP is $30,000 get for $27,500 so OTD is roughly $30,000 (varies by state)

Say I have been calling around to different dealers including ones out of area as driving a few hours for the right price isn’t an issue. You are ready to buy right now and will put down a $500 deposit right now on the phone and come by this weekend to finish, you can sign the deal agreement and deposit payment over email or preferred method. They typically ask what price others have given, make up a number doesn’t matter $800 over goal price is good ($28,300)Then they’ll usually say if i can beat that price would we have a deal. Theyll drop it a few hundred ($28,000) (at which point you have a decent deal but) Then say, that is a decent price but I promised my wife (doesn’t matter if you’re married) I wouldn’t spend more then (desired price $27,500) at which point they’ll probably come down to that price or within a couple and you’ll get it for $27,500-$27,800 and they’ll probably be giving you the best price they can do.

Invoice is old. Dealers pickup cars for a lot more now since everyone asks to see invoice and try to get for invoice price. So now they buy the car for a much higher amount to show a high invoice price but they get their money now from huge kick backs from manufacturers once sold. They can go well under invoice and still make a good profit.

True, but regardless it meant I got my car at the time for cheaper than a lot of other dealers were trying to sell the same setup for.

So for the OP it makes sense to find a salesman who doesn’t mind getting the price that low since clearly there are many who still try to sell for more than necessary.

PM me I can get under 29k before tax and fees if I you’re ok with the color I have in stock.

Or call/text me at 650-619-2310.

Thanks for all the replies -- was away on vacation and just picked one up when I got back. I figured out that 5 dealers in the bay area all had WRB w/ PP in stock and just asked each one to beat prices of the previous until they wouldn't go lower.

As a previous poster stated, in the Bay they don't tend to want to go much below 29.5. I had lowest offer at 29,018 and highest (final) offer at 29,900. Nobody would drop under 29 (and veloist - sorry I missed your message, was in a rush to get a car when I got back since my other car still needs a motor).

HTH!