Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB

Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=2)
-   -   Which model year to look for? (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143597)

Rkcs 12-19-2020 01:21 PM

Which model year to look for?
 
Hi, It's been a few months of planning and today i am ready look for a Toyota 86(Pre-facelift). I would like to ask for your input on which Model Year should i be looking for? i've read there has been a few recalls on the earlier models. Thank you!

ls1ac 12-19-2020 01:29 PM

The newest with the least mileage you can afford.

Rkcs 12-19-2020 01:48 PM

Thank you for your reply! i can afford a 2014-2015 model. Though i am very new and i am not sure if those year models are cleared from the factory recall.

Willpower 12-19-2020 02:03 PM

Wouldn’t take much more to be able to afford a decent ‘17. I’d definitely consider saving a bit more and going for that. Many little refinements that added up to a sum of more than the parts. Otherwise, what ls1ac said above.

Ashikabi 12-19-2020 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rkcs (Post 3394131)
Thank you for your reply! i can afford a 2014-2015 model. Though i am very new and i am not sure if those year models are cleared from the factory recall.

Anything not 2013

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

Rkcs 12-19-2020 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willpower (Post 3394132)
Wouldn’t take much more to be able to afford a decent ‘17. I’d definitely consider saving a bit more and going for that. Many little refinements that added up to a sum of more than the parts. Otherwise, what ls1ac said above.

I really like how the pre-facelift looked but i will look into the newer ones. Might change my mind on how it looks. Thank you! :)

Rkcs 12-19-2020 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ashikabi (Post 3394137)
Anything not 2013

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

Thanks, seems like it narrows down to 2014 to 2016. are there any significant changes within those years?

Ashikabi 12-19-2020 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rkcs (Post 3394140)
Thanks, seems like it narrows down to 2014 to 2016. are there any significant changes within those years?

I haven't kept up. Pre-facelift should all be pretty much identical. Even post, they didn't change much.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

pope 12-19-2020 04:08 PM

Why not buy the newest one you can afford and gain all the little improvements, then swap the bumper if you want the early front?

HaXx 12-19-2020 04:42 PM

my mentality is that the facelift and prefacelift are spitting images of eachother, yes the facelift has buttons on the steering wheels, maybe slightly different springs, tail lights, headlights, but no performance differences that amount to anything. theyre the same car. youre just going to get lowering springs or coilovers anyway so it doesnt really matter. im sure its nice having a back up camera, oh well. the 2013's had the valve spring recall, of which i do not understand at all because try finding someone whos valve springs failed before they were recalled, it is just not a topic of discussion here. nobodys springs have ever failed, not sure why they were recalled. the problem is not that the springs were failing, the problem was that the cars were dying after the recall was preformed. id say buy a '13 if the recall was never performed, and ABSOLUTELY do not buy a '13 if the recall was ever performed. just avoid all that mess and buy a '14

the earlier cars in manual trans had a problem with a $40 bearing next to the clutch. thats much less worrisome than the valve spring ordeal. i just replaced the bearing and clutch on my '13 at 47k miles, no big deal really. im not sure specifically what year they revised the bearing, i think the '14's are safe.

Ashikabi 12-19-2020 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HaXx (Post 3394167)
my mentality is that the facelift and prefacelift are spitting images of eachother, yes the facelift has buttons on the steering wheels, maybe slightly different springs, tail lights, headlights, but no performance differences that amount to anything. theyre the same car. youre just going to get lowering springs or coilovers anyway so it doesnt really matter. im sure its nice having a back up camera, oh well. the 2013's had the valve spring recall, of which i do not understand at all because try finding someone whos valve springs failed before they were recalled, it is just not a topic of discussion here. nobodys springs have ever failed, not sure why they were recalled. the problem is not that the springs were failing, the problem was that the cars were dying after the recall was preformed. id say buy a '13 if the recall was never performed, and ABSOLUTELY do not buy a '13 if the recall was ever performed. just avoid all that mess and buy a '14



the earlier cars in manual trans had a problem with a $40 bearing next to the clutch. thats much less worrisome than the valve spring ordeal. i just replaced the bearing and clutch on my '13 at 47k miles, no big deal really. im not sure specifically what year they revised the bearing, i think the '14's are safe.

I agree with the spring observation. The 2013 had another issue losing motors but at this point any survivors should be beyond the potential "sudden death" time frame and be safe

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

soundman98 12-19-2020 05:19 PM

iirc, there was a thread somewhere that detailed minor changes every year. it was never anything more than adding an extra piece of metal here or there, and i doubt a luddite like me would ever be able to tell the difference, but there were minor improvements made as the platform aged that should have an effect on overall reliability and chassis rigidity.

so as @ls1ac said, get the newest least mileage one!

86TOYO2k17 12-19-2020 06:20 PM

17+ did have a few minor internal engine changes, and i think something with the MT gears. Then there is the whole valve train recall issue on earlier models not sure exactly what year that went up to. I think 16s are pretty safe but. Personally 17+ seems to be the safest bet all around to go with.

I wouldn’t go earlier year just to penny pinch or try to get a “deal” as others said newest least miles you can afford.

HaXx 12-19-2020 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3394181)
iirc, there was a thread somewhere that detailed minor changes every year. it was never anything more than adding an extra piece of metal here or there, and i doubt a luddite like me would ever be able to tell the difference, but there were minor improvements made as the platform aged that should have an effect on overall reliability and chassis rigidity.

so as @ls1ac said, get the newest least mileage one!

if im not mistaken, all the differences between the years are in this database, but the tldr is that these changes between years are insignificant when compared to an affordable upgrade like RCE Yellow springs



https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal/

the 17 has a better header and intake manifold, adding up to a whopping 5 more bhp


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:02 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2026 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.


Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.