Camber without rubbing? TRD springs
 

Hello,

Currently have TRD springs for almost 3 years now. Haven't done any adjustments to camber (all natural from the 1 inch drop) (rear has visible neg camber and front has almost none).

I notice there are some slight understeer during spirited drives. What are my options to increase "stability" around corners?

I was looking into adding camber bolts at the front to get some negative camber but worried it might rub stock spring perch. 18x9.5+35 with 245/35/18 Falken Azenis FK510

Anyone have similar setup that made it work? or any other suggestions to increase handling for TRD springs?

Thanks

Get your toe checked.

With those wheels/tires and big stock-diameter springs you're not going to get much/anything with camber bolts. I went with camber plates but they robbed me of bump travel, no bueno with stock struts (I ltimately went with Bilsteins which have a ton more usable bump travel).

Offset top mounts might be your best bet to get some desperately-needed front camber:
https://www.ftspeed.com/part/580096-...B#.X9zN2thKhPY

Also take note that in ZDan's link "only 1 left" and they are sold separate, one needs two.

This, a good shop can probably get you to -1.5 or maybe even a bit more but that's probably about it. That'll still be better then stock.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...nt-strut-mount

Looks like only 1 left here too. I have these with SACHs. I love them.


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+1 for the pedders mounts.

I was able to get -2.3 of camber in the front with crash bolts and peddlers top mounts. Wheels and tires are 17x8 and 245-40-17

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How do camber plates reduce bump travel??

Camber plates are shorter (flatter or thinner) than oem strut mounts.


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The SSC kits get you more than -3 degrees from camber with Eibach Pro Plus springs and SPC camber bolts. That is a 17x8 wheel, et40. You might get less camber before you put your wheel into your strut with an 9.5" wheel, but you should still be able to get plenty of camber.

With that said, I can't really imagine the car not understeering with Falken FK510's. You just aren't going to have a lot of front grip.

Koni yellow have a bigger upper hole that oe struts don't have for that little extra camber. Without it and with the spc+oe bolts best you'll do is -2.5 ish iirc. I think you're underestimating how much less camber you get with a 1.5" wider wheel, even 5mm offset (45et) is a few tenths less camber on the ssc package and you can't hit -3.0°

I thought only the "first run" Konis had the larger hole. I also had different experiences as far as what you could fit with the SSC setup, but...

Regardless, I would define anywhere from about -1.5 and up, as plenty. Camber plates are overkill for this application, IMO.

To my knowledge they still supply a centering washer to meet SCCA-Street compliance, and it might only be on request these days, you definitely cannot hit -3 with two camber bolts and factory struts, I've tried which leads me to believe the SSC kit still has the enlarged hole, I only got around -2.2 iirc and I've read similar claims around here. Maybe they based their design off a WRX/STI that has a factory cam bolt, not sure. Should be easy enough to measure if you ever have the need to unbolt that strut, just compare the diameter of the two upper holes, if they match it's not OE spec.

For this application 'spirited drives' I would agree, -1.5 to -2 should be a nice improvement over stock with minimal adverse affects.