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FA20 NA - how easy to wake up the engine and add “character”?
Hi all - newbie to this board, doing some research and thinking of jumping into a twin. Love what I read about handling, steering, shift feel etc. but if there is one knock on the car it’s the engine. Some say it lacks character, that power delivery is so-so, and that it just buzzes. I did test drive one and I can see what they are talking about with a stock motor.
My question is how easy is it to wake the engine up? I’ve read about torque dip, tunes (I want to stay NA), headers, intake and exhaust. Question is after you do all that how does the FA20 feel compared to the benchmarks of the 4 cylinder crowd (say Honda, Miata, etc.)? What about lightweight flywheels? Does that help with responsiveness and rev hang? In the end I prioritize responsiveness, sound, feel, and free-reving nature of an engine over outright power. Just trying to see if you can get a FA20 there with bolt-ons and how it compares to other engines. Thanks. |
The last sporty 4cyl car I had was a 1995 mitsubishi eclipse before I bought my first twin in 2014. These cars, imo, need headers. They are fun as is, but I feel most enthusiastic with headers and a tune. Which headers you choose is up for countless debates and a few member bans. But if you are trying to squeeze the most NA out of it, the ACE headers are probably the best bet.
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That being said, I just drove a new ND miata and wow that engine is good. |
Header of your favorite sound, tune.
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After intake, headers, and a tune, it still isn’t as fun as my old B16A. I’m afraid to race my friends with a B18C in a straight line because I know I’m gonna get gapped. It’s not even close to any K series motor. My old S14 with SR20DET would leave it in the dust, but that’s boosted. So to be honest, it’s the weakest in a straight line of all the 4-cylinders I’ve ever owned or driven. But yes, the handling is the best out of all the cars I’ve owned.
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Honestly, engine mounts. The extra raucousness and noise really added a lot of character to what was otherwise a humdrum path to 7400 rpm. Now every on-ramp is fun.
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Lightweight flywheel and clutch really wake the car up off the line
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UEL catless headers and overpipe, Q300 Cback and stock front pipe OFT E85 Tune(Petrol if I want) Sounds nice not too loud and runs much better
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Funny I just drove a ND Miata today too, that engine/experience was one of the reasons I started this post.
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Torque dip is easy solved buy down shifting.
Yes it's 180hp of raging hamsters. But it is a fat Miata so it does feel and at times is quick. If you want more power, buy something else. Yes you can add a turbo/super charger but all that money spent, you could have a better car right from the get go. In other words if you like the car for the looks go for it. If you want this car for the power, look elsewhere. After all this car is an instantgram whore, loved by vape smoking tilty-wheel skin tight jeans that still make their bottoms sagg f-boys. |
Beyond a header and good tune and e85 if available there isn't much more you can do without going forced induction that will really do anything.. If you're looking for a straight line faster car as a priority you need to look elsewhere. The 86 platform is more about lightness and the great things associated with that
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Easy? yes.
Cheap? No. Light clutch assembly, header, tune. |
Yeah again I’m not looking for outright power (one comparison is a Miata after all). I’m looking for a fun to drive engine experience, something that revs quickly, sounds great, has linear power delivery straight through redline.
From a couple of responses it sounds like I/H/E mods plus engine mounts plus lightweight flywheel might get you close. But that’s a lot of mods, where as an S2000 or ND might be more emotive out of the box. |
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Just out of curiosity, what "better car" is out there for the price of a well-sorted boosted BRZ? To be more specific, let's say we take a brand new base BRZ for about USD$25-26k and give it a well-sorted FI setup (proper cooling upgrades, catch cans, clutch, etc) and some decent wheels/tires, coilovers, brakes and minor weight reduction for an additional $12k or so. We have a total of about USD$35-37k put in with about 300-330whp in a 2500-2600lbs car that arguably handles just as well as a Porsche Cayman. Genuinely curious as to what people mean when they say "don't put money in the 86 to boost it, just get a "better car"...not trying to be a wise ass, but really curious about what "better car" everyone has in mind within this price range? Were you thinking of a used C6 Z06, used Caymans etc? |
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