Tracking a FI twin - reliability and upgrade path
 

I posted this over on the facebook group, but figure i'd post it here as well since i am trying to get rid of facebook slowly.

So, I've got a few questions after a couple of track days under my belt and as the season has pretty much wound down in the PNW, i am thinking of next season already and a few questions come to mind:

1> even since i installed a turbo, i also had a single catch can put in. But its been bone dry ever since. Even after track days. This normal? I have monitored oil levels, and haven't seen any drop at the end of a track day. Motor is on Motul 5W40 (since turbo went in, or about 20kmiles and 2 track days ago)

2> Is a oil pan baffle and oil pickup required to help with any possible oil starvation issues?

3> How likely is the possibility of a rocker arm failure (mine is a 2015 FRS)

4> is a BBK necessary, or just better pads ( currently PMU CR F/R) and fluid is good to go. (right now on Conti ECS, but moving to Maxxis VR1/RE71R next season). Trying to figure out budget for next season. Edit: I have cooked the brakes during late afternoon sessions on a hot day (90 deg F +)

5> Stick with existing Flex A coils with EDFC when moving to TW200 tires or look at upgrading to Tein Mono Racing coilovers.

6> I am terrible at heeltoe, to the point where its non-existent. How badly can this fuck up the motor/clutch when on track?

staying on this, the lazy way out is to use Racerom autoblip (as i am not sure how long it would take me to get comfortable rev matching when at speed on track as opposed to rolling up to a stop light on the road), but My tuner doesn't touch anything without Motec nowadays, if tune is keyed is there a way to add racerom features so i can have autoblip enabled by another tuner (say Zach at CSG) without changing the tune itself.

7> What other failure modes should i be cognizant about besides (oil/fuel starvation, rocker arm failure, oil pressure drop) to ensure highest possible reliability of motor.


Thanks for your time.

sounds like this is still your daily?

Don't have any experience tracking a FI twin, but I did want to say - learn to heel and toe. It really isn't that hard, it just takes practice. Start with rev matching every downshift in your daily drive. When you get that right and are more comfortable you can start heel + toeing downshifts. It helps a lot at the track and prevents upsetting the car during braking. I've never used auto-blip but that's just a bandaid IMO.


Just from doing this while DDing I was able to halfway-decent heel & toe for my first track event. Subsequent track events & hard driving has made it second nature by now.

Occasionally. Have only put about 20k miles since i bought it nearly 4 years ago. Got another cage to get around in.

How is your catch can connected, and is it baffled?

If you're on track, start with fresh oil and focus on your driving, not preoccupation of your mule

Have you tracked anything but this car before? Your experience honestly helps dictate your upgrade path. Having incredible brakes, suspension, tires, aero, will hinder your progression as a driver somewhat if you don't have a great skill base to build from.

Feeling your brakes get spongy will help you understand when/where you're overcooking your braking

Having great aero and tires may diminish your pedal control

Having suspension that keeps you flat will prevent you from learning why and how body roll is helpful and how much you might want per track you're at, as well as keeping you from understanding safely how to drive on the edge without it being all or nothing.

1. Normal to have dry catch cans.
2. Nope
3. unlikely without a money shift or oil pressure loss
4. Better pads is plenty until you KNOW you need more brake.
5. No need to upgrade unless you feel some shortcoming or have an immediate issue
6. It depends on how you shift. If you don't shock the drivetrain, not a big deal.
7. regular maintenace according to your use

Only my 3rd track day in a cage. 1st was in bolt on NA FR-s in 2015. The other two were this year. BUt track motorcycles a little more often.

Here's a video of the last lap (also my fastest of the day) last session from OCt 3rd .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQju7EJiPRc


Catch can is setup VTA

The side that goes normally to the intake tube from the block is also setup VTA through a small filter.
Suspension :
Current: Tein Flex A with EDFC Pro, Racerx front end links, SPL rear LCA, SPC toearms, hotchkis strut tower and front sway bars.
Planned: Lower height some more. New alignment. SPL bump steer kit. Maybe (long shot) MCA traction mod.

Tires & wheels:
Current:720Form GTF1 17x9 +35 with Conti ECS 245/40/17s
Planned: Weds TC105X 17x9 +35 with Maxxis VR1 next season.

Brakes:
Current:Club Racer front and rear, stock rotors. PMU 335 fluid.
Planned: High carbon centric blanks and C2 pads from CSG (for next season). Castrol SRF fluid.

Cooling:
Current: Dual core Laminova plumbed into coolant lines for oil cooling and Verus vents.With koyo Rad
Planned: jackson racing OIl cooler (air cooled) with Trackspec vents. (new hood)


Aero: Don't plan on installing any.


Thanks MIke!

your temps are at equilibrium, but high. Won't take much to overheat from here. Even just a little more driver mod will do it. The trackspec vents will help immensely.


Try softening that rear sway.

Definitely planning on those trackspec vents for next season. But also planning for that jackson oil cooler you've got on your website to de-couple oil cooling from coolant fully.

It would overheat if this was on a warmer day. Ambient was at 83 F.
Coolant comes down to <200 deg F, oil @ 205 deg F by the time i am parked at end of cool down lap though.

Roger on the rear sway bar. Can you explain the reason you mention it? Oversteer?

oops. I meant stiffen the rear, or soften the front.

The pedals are adjustable. I had to lower the brake pedal considerably to get it closer to the accelerator pedal height. If you do this heel toe will be much easier.

Gotcha.

I'll try getting the matching hotchkis rear sway bar. On the softer setting already with the front hotchkis sway.

Will try it out. Thanks for the tip!

You look like you're doing great for having minimal track experience. A good driver can work around most of the issues you've described so I say just get more seat time. Work on upgrading things things come up.


I'm not too familiar with these FA20 engines but I'm always weary of oil starvation after previously grenading an engine on the track. However, it doesn't seem like you are carrying enough speed with long sweeping high-G corners so I wouldn't worry about it for now. Just be mindful once you notice you're dropping lap times either through better driving and/or stickier tires.

May I ask why you are advising this? From something you saw in the video, I'm guessing?