FRS rear subframe removal?
 

Hi, I've searched and searched and cannot find a guide on how to remove the rear subframe. If someone could point me in the right direction that would be great. Thanks.

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Unbolt/remove anything between the ground and the subframe
Unbolt the subframe
???
Profit!

1. Disconnect driveline from diff.
2. Remove exhaust, disconnecting from mid pipe to front pipe junction back.
3. Remove parking brake cables.
4. Unbolt rear struts at the top mount inside the trunk. 2 nuts per side.
5. Disconnect TPMS and brake caliper. Zip tie up out of the way.
6. Support subframe, loosen off the 4 subframe mounting bolts.

That is all I can remember off the top of my head, installation is opposite of removal. You can also unbolt the rear struts at the LCA's and let them dangle. This gives you the option to zip tie the caliper to the spring instead, but you have to deal with them dangling in the way. I used a forklift with extensions to raise and lower the subframe. A transmission jack would work well. If you have a buddy to help, it could probably be done with a floor jack too, but it will be difficult to work with, especially on reassembly.

Are you changing your diff bushings?
This is my next project... its quite the task..

Thanks for all the quick and helpful replies! Looks like I'll be tackling subframe and diff bushings soon enough.

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Yes diff and subframe bushings. I've done diff bushings on my E46 before, it was not fun.

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I was not looking forward to doing this... if you manage to complete this before me please share any updates / advice with the forum


my bushings are on their way out as well, and I don't like the inserts



will likely put the car up on all 4 jacks once weather gets bad and take my time on this project during the winter

Welcome to our forum, there, yzf219 - :clap:

Why do you want to do that?

Are you sure you want to do that?

:iono:

Will do. I looked at the inserts too and figured I might as well do it properly, rather then do inserts and then have to replace the bushings down the road when they fail.

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Haha thanks. Just got the car and noticed that there is excessive amounts of driveline slop during on/off throttle application. It's probably normal amounts, but my last car had poly diff bushings and I really liked how solid it felt.

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For the subframe, if you can get it up high enough, set it on some saw horses, your back will thank you later. The subframe bushings I recommend burning out, then use an air chisel to collapse the outer shell and it can be knocked out. If you don't have an air chisel or air hammer you can use a grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut a slit in the outer shell and hit it with hammer and chisel to collapse and knock it out. Body saw works for cutting a slit in the shell too.

The outrigger bushings on the diff can be pressed out, the rears can be burned out and then collapse the shell like the subframe bushings.

I was out of gas for the torch when I did mine. I had a hole saw the right size and used it to cut the rubber bushing out. It is a messy job requiring many beers and blasphemies.

[emoji15][emoji15] This definitely sounds like a 2 day job at least. Appreciate the wisdom.

I do seem to recall someone on this forum saying they managed to do the subframe bushings without dropping the subframe. Rather he just lowered it enough and then cut/burned out the bushings from the bottom? I don't know how that's possible, maybe I misunderstood.

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They may have just been doing inserts instead of the whole bushing. I’d be surprised if these came out easily on a new car.

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