P0010 CEL - Finding the issue
 

Hi all,

Recently got a P0010, did some reading up and found some had luck fixing it after replacing the OCV.

So I got myself a new OCV, replaced it, drove it for awhile, but the CEL came back on. Same code. Even swapping the OCVs around. It always points back to the fault on Bank 1 intake side.

Has anyone else encountered this issue too?

Some updates,

Going to drop the timing chain cover to take a look at the cam sprockets. Most probably swapping it to see if it remedies the issue.

Don't do it. This is an electrical problem. If it's not the OCV solenoid, then it's wiring or the ECU.


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Thanks for the heads up. I'll give the electrical portion a run-thru as well.

I've got the same issue
 

Just found this thread after my 2013 FR-S threw a CEL. I'm getting the same code, P0010.

Wondering if you were able to fix this issue on your car, OP?

A little background:

• Car was sitting barely driven from May 2019- Feb. 2020
• Feb. 2020 @ about 30,000 miles valve springs were replaced due to recall
• Drove the care lightly for 1000 miles over the span of the next year (into 2021)
• @ 30,802 miles I did an oil change, replacing 0w-20 with 5w-30 after reading about people recommending this different oil type, not considering whether it was used for daily driving or tracking the car
• CEL comes on @ 31,061 (259 miles after oil change)
• I pull the OBD code from Autozone and they say to replace OCV

Apologies if this is not the right place to be posting this, I haven't been on the forum for years. I may try to start a new thread detailing my process of trying to fix this issue, but I wanted to see if anyone here could point me in the right direction to get started in the resolution process.

I have basic knowledge of the car and have done some light mods. I'd like to try and find a local (City of Los Angeles) tuner that has experience with these cars to help me fix this problem. I'll be looking around the forums to try and find, but again, if anyone here happens to know of any, it would be greatly appreciated if you shared.

Thank you, guys. Sorry for the wordy post. :)

No worries with the change in viscosity. Don't give that a second thought.

I'd just take it to a good shop to have it diagnosed by a pro. Shuffling parts around can just make matters worse if not done carefully and methodically. No need for a tuner.

UPDATE:

I took my car back to the dealer where they did the valve spring replacement. Before doing so, I changed my oil back to 0W20. They kept it for about a week and told me the code was gone. They would not elaborate on why it had shown up in the first place, or what they did to fix it...

Oh well, the car seems to be running fine. Took it to the track last weekend and beat my PR :iono: