Need to bypass security system
 

I have a problem. I have a flood vehicle which required the replacement of all the control modules. But somewhere in it all I switched on the power without all the modules in place and now it is locked down in security mode and will not start. I took it to the dealer but the tech tells me that because I switched power on before I had swapped all the modules the security system has permanently locked down. The only fix is to replace all the modules with new ones and have them program them.
Does any one know a way of bypassing this system?

So you're saying you powered up some without the others and now they won't power up even if you hook them all up?

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Which modules are failing on the CANBUS?

Thanks for the replies. Just a short history - I bought a flood car and had it running but it had bad wiring harnesses and corrosion on a lot of the modules. So I bought a wrecked car and scavenged the wiring harnesses and modules. I changed out ECM, ECU and most of the other modules. I did not change out the receiver (black box under the parcel shelf). Then I reconnected the battery and tried to start the car. Everything on the dash looked normal but when I turned the key the whole way the security light flashed. I figured it may need flashing at the dealer. The tech at the dealer said he tried for 2 hours to get it going but could not and is not going to charge me for his time. His explanation (based on past experience) is that if you don't change out ALL the modules that are part of the security system and then try to start the vehicle it will lock up the starting of the car and will not work again - they all need to be changed for new ones which is $$$$. The tech seems knowledgeable but also seems too busy to be bothered with my headache.
Also Dave-ROR he could not tell me which module had a problem. In fact it concerns me a bit that he can't actually pinpoint a cause for the problem.
Any idea if he is correct in his diagnosis?
Is it possible to hack into the security system and disable it?

I think @Opie has the details on this but yeah it's not easy to just swap some of the modules as they are coded to each other. Maybe techstream can reprogram them? Not sure but Opie likely knows.

First, Is the car a key start or a push start? Is the donor car the same?

Second, List every module you swapped. BIU/Fuse box?, ECU?, SRS?, Gauge Cluster?

Third, What key are you using? Original or donor?

My answers may be a little delayed as I'm working on a few things today.

Opie - Both cars are the same year, and as far as I know exactly the same. They are key start. I did not change out the Gauge cluster as the mileage would be altered. I did not change out any fuse box. I did change out the airbag module and the ECM and the ECU as well as the driving mode module - snow/sport/normal by the automatic gearshift lever.
I also changed out the amplifier ring that goes around the ignition key slot.
I was using the original key so that I wouldn't have to change out locks. I tried it with the original fob and black receiver under the parcel shelf and the doors still locked and unlocked. When the car would not start I put in the donor car key fob and changed out the black receiver. Now the doors would not unlock with the remote and the car would still not start.
I really appreciate your help here Opie as I am at a loss here.

There are 3 components that work as a "System" for the Immobilizer to work correctly and allow the car to start. If swapping parts between cars all 3 components must be swapped/used in order for proper communication to start the car.
The main body ECU (network gateway ECU) *also called the BIU, it's the black box attached to the interior fuse box, the combination meter (gauge cluster) and the keys (keys will require swapping the ignition lock cylinder and the door/trunk lock cylinders).

If any of the parts are used/installed individually the system will not allow the car to start. Once any of these components are programmed together, they must stay together and cannot be reprogrammed to work individually.

If the system was working before, I would use the original components. If one of those components fail due to corrosion, the part that fails would need to be replaced with a new one (not a swapped/used part) and then programmed by the dealer.

Thanks Opie. That is more information than the dealer tech could tell me. He wasn't sure whether it was 3 components or more and wasn't sure which components were involved. So that makes me suspect what else he told me.
He said that if I put in 2 of the donor cars modules and mixed the with the original ones they would go into a security shutdown, like they have. He also said that it was irreversible and could not be solved by now installing the remaining module from the donor car. But that doesn't sound right to me. Do you know?
Once again I really appreciate your help here.
Brian

I doubt it's irreversible, that would be a stupid way to design something. Maybe they just don't want to deal with it.

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This will help:


https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal/

I don't believe any of the system gets irreparably "locked" if you mix components, pretty sure if you put the 3 original components back, or the 3 components out of the donor it will be fine.

Wow Tcoat. That is an incredible tool to have access to. Thanks a lot eh.

The previous replies (and authors) give a lot more information than I ever could regarding this issue. However, there is an easy procedure that is needed when you replace the ECM (engine ECU) located under the glove box. I'm not sure if it can help or not, when you replace other modules as well. It may be worth trying.

See the following thread: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810 for more information.

All you need is a piece of wire and 30 minutes of your time (and a good battery in the car). I got fancy and built a small loopback connector to avoid damage to the OBD-II connector. See my post at the end of that thread if you want part numbers.

Fluke