Invidia Over-pipe installation tips.
 

So it's UEL headers time for me, just waiting for them to be ceramic coated and what not. I know an over-pipe is a matter of debate whether it helps or not on performance, etc. I just couldn't help myself to get one, because why not. Is like telling the kid to not eat the marshmallow in front of them. Anyways, anyone have any advice on installation and fitment. I have a general idea that I should remove the heat shield from the OEM one first to make things easier. I don't what else I should be prepared for.

I did this on my back for 2 days. Learned the hard way. F the heat shield, Its probably rusted to sht anyways. Connecticut? Yup, rusted.

First, get the car on jackstands. Youll need a free jack. Get the front pipe OFF before you start on the OP. Then get the OP off after. Let it just sit there off the header. Loosen the engine mount on that side. A single bolt, easy to access. Dont take the nut all the way off!! Use some wood to jack on the oil pan until the OP has enough room to slide out the back. Its not much, maybe an inch. There is not enough room for it to come out with the front pipe mounted, it must come off. Now might be a good time to freshen up that leaking donut gasket. Also make sure the new gaskets match the new pipe. GruppeS supplied 2" gaskets for their 2.5" header and OP.

[QUOTE=Westen86;3355227]I did this on my back for 2 days. Learned the hard way. F the heat shield, Its probably rusted to sht anyways. Connecticut? Yup, rusted.

Thanks man. So actually, I got this car from Georgia, and it was about two months ago and there’s no rust. The car has barely 15K miles on it but I’ll keep the advice in mind. I was fearing to mess with the engine mounts but we’ll see how it goes. The Front Pipe is brand new from HKS so it’s shouldn’t be much of a problem. Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

[QUOTE=spcmafia;3355319]You should be fine then, lifting the engine is very easy. I know people fear it. But you only need a little bit to get it out. I got it out with lifting the engine but it was a PITA and I broke a stud, which sucked because I was putting it back. Some people think that the stock one can help with low end torque. Don’t hold your breath for any real world results. I figured why spend $200 for a small benefit if any.

100% get the car on jackstands, loosen the mounts and raise the engine using a wooden block between the oil pan and the jack.
Definitely get it over with now before it rusts to shit.

I'm assuming the bolts M12096 and M120148 are the ones that need to be loosened up but not all the way, just enough to get about an inch of clearance. Sorry, I just want to cover my bases, I like using diagrams.

You remove the nut. The bolts hold the mounts to the engine itself.

Find Ultramaroon, look in his sig, it links to copies of the service manual.

[QUOTE=NoHaveMSG;3355439]You remove the nut. The bolts hold the mounts to the engine itself.

Thanks! I just realized that's the nut people were mentioning, it shouldn't be too bad then.

Its located up in an open space in the subframe. Probably need a 3" extension and deepwell socket. Mine was rough coming out. Remember, DONT TAKE IT ALL THE WAY OFF. Just to the end of the thread.