Minimum steps for Replacing wheel studs. Front vs. Rear.
 

I just want to clear up some confusion in the archives.

For front studs, you need to remove the caliper and the rotor.
Then you have free access to remove and replace studs.

For rear studs, you need to remove the caliper and the rotor.
Then you need to rotate the hub to find that clear open spot where you can remove and replace each stud.

Is this above correct?
Are all these steps required?

Do you even need to remove rotors to replace broken wheel studs?
This guy does not
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aVHQo3SeVo

Yea the front is easy. The rear kinda more involved but still simple.

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Pound stud out
Pound stud in

That's less complicated than what you proposed! Just make sure nothing is in the way and you're good.

That is no good without a 15 minute video, in full color, and using pretty gloves - :iono:

Ehhh, I found the ball joint method to be much more effective and straightforward in my opinion. Just gotta watch where your washers are.

I mainly watched @justinco's video instead of the linked video; haven't watched the above video admittedly but Justin's video is clear enough such that it helped with my removing the wheel studs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5d4hMNReXA

Depends on if you're installing regular wheel studs or extended wheel studs. The latter requires disconnecting the axle from the wheel hub, and the axle is a bitch to remove if the car has several years on it already.

https://youtu.be/qfHCA-Q7Uq0. I didnt remove mine.

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If you do plan to remove the entire rear hub, make sure you remove the ABS sensor BEFORE sliding the axle inwards. The ABS sensor fits in a groove of the axle and you will break it otherwise.

I just installed 2.5" ARP and did not remove the rear hub.
The nipples on the end are the only thing stopping them from going in.

That's what I did. Removed caliper and rotor, used HF press tool since I couldn't get it out by hammering.



Exactly as you described for the rear, had to rotate it a little to find the sweet spot to get the bolt out.

You got it right, its just that simple. The only thing in the rear is you have to find that spot behind the hub where it can be removed. Also use a small sledge, 3 pound, makes it easier to remove them.

The video is fine but whats 2 more minutes to remove the rotor.

I had to replace a couple at the rear and it took 20 minutes, not a complicated job.

:lol::lol::lol:

Saved for the future when a stud finally breaks on me :)

I am only referring to OEM studs, not extenders.
In that case, rear OEM stud is same as front?
Just pound out and pull in, and just need to find that gap?
Nothing special about the rear?

Yes. I've done both front and rear and the studs are the same. The rear is just a tiny bit trickier because of other stuff that gets in the way on the back side of the hub. I personally use the ball joint press method, but if you are comfortable with pound and pull, go for it.