Differences in driving feel/mechanical issues w/different clutch types?
 

Okay so first off, if this is the wrong place for this please redirect it appropriately, but I think I'm good.

Here goes...

Looking to replace the factory clutch soonish (2013 Base FRS w/67k miles) and I already had to replace the throwout bearing when it seized a few months ago (didn't have money for clutch kit at the time or would have done it then), and I was wondering about the differences between some different types of clutches on the market.

1. While I do not require a twin disc for any power reasons as I am still NA with a full exhause, TRD intake, and an OFT tune, I haven't ever driven a car with a twin disc clutch and am curious if it would affect the driveability at all, or if it would just make a mostly factory FRS less fun to drive.

2. Again, no super power mods, but I do plan to save up and drop some forced induction into it within a few years time (full rebuild with forged goodies and head work happening when that does come around), so would it be worth my while to spring for a beefier clutch NOW or wait and just upgrade it when it's time to do the turbo/supercharger installation?
2a. What would be the differences between running a sprung or unsprung disc in terms of how the clutch operates and how it would make the pedal feel under both normal daily driving and track days? I've only ever replaced "like with like" when I've done any clutch work before and I honestly haven't got a clue on which one would be better for a mostly daily driven car that I plan to AutoX VERY occasionally and maybe throw in a track day here and there.

3. I know that Exedy is a good bet for basically everything, and I've used their products in the past with zero issues, but does anyone have any experiences with the other available brands regarding the change in driving feel (with or without a lightweight flywheel), and whether or not it's recommended to swap out to a lightweight crank pulley when installing a lightened flywheel to keep the weight on the crank more closely balanced instead of having a heavier load on one end or the other?


While I won't be pulling the trigger on parts for at least a few months in any case (I'm not rich...gotta save that dough), I do appreciate any and all input that anyone can offer, even if it's "You're an idiot, just get an OEM kit and be done with it" :thumbup:

Thanks in advance!

This is highly dependent on your goals. The twin disc car I've driven was ruthless. An on/off switch that I couldn't imagine daily driving in.

I had the Exedy stage 1 clutch, it held the 260wtq (330whp) I was making, and it drove like stock with a little better clutch pedal feel.

A lot of people buy the ACT clutches, so you'll see good and bad there- I see a lot of Subarus running them that don't have issues after a proper install and break-in.

I would leave your perfectly functioning stock crank pulley alone.
I have no qualms with a lightweight flywheel, but it requires more delicate clutch control when taking off from a stop, and you'll lose your engine braking.
Decide your goals for torque before contemplating your supporting mods- a lot more goes into supporting more than 260wtq "safely" than say 200-200wtq.

If your clutch is actually wearing out, I would get the Exedy stage 1 to replace it. It's pretty cheap and will hold decent power. It won't inconvenience you at the least

Be prepared before you do your forced induction, but don't stagger your installations; get it all done in one go, so you can troubleshoot issues all at once.

DarkPira7e:sure on engine braking loss? Imho most braking with engine happens with pumping losses (and to less extent friction), and those will stay same and imho make up much more then slight kinetic energy amount stored in flywheel.. which actually with accel off should act as something making car drive longer (or in this case - decel at slower rate..)

All of that is perfect info! Appreciate the response, and it looks like the Exedy will be the go-to option until I try and start putting serious power down. I was worried about the twin disc affecting the engagement, but having never used one I had no real way to know what it would do.
As far as my torque goals...I'm not looking to go insane in any case, even if I do end up with lottery level money somehow :confused0068:
More just trying to get that extra "oomf" out of it for spirited daily driving and the occasional track day without compromising the dependability of the vehicle any more than is necessary. Thinking maybe a maximum of 300 at the crank but even that would be much farther into the build process. That's like the end goal for power and not the starting point.

I do a lot of rev match downshifting and engine braking, so maybe the lightened flywheel would not be in my best interest, but I do like the feel of the lighter and more free revving engine...I dunno...I'll figure that out and probably make an impulse buy one way or the other at the last second that totally contradicts all logic and reason:bonk:

If your rev matching and engine braking at the same time your doing it wrong IMO.

You rev match to bring the rpm up to match the gear and road speed, not to engine break, all engine braking is going to do is unsettle the car.

Slowing down is what your brakes are for, either that, or all the driver training I did at the track was wrong....

On topic, as stated, match your clutch to your torque, going to heavy will do a few negative things for a street car, cost, drivability, NVH and longevity, heavy clutches like to be treated rough, if you baby/slip them to try and gain some smoothness/drivability you will just cook it quicker, but, if you treat them like they like to be treated, you move the stresses from the clutch to the gearbox, tailshaft diff and axles.

Opinions may vary

Yeah I guess I should've been more specific. I meant engine braking by letting out the clutch is gone, not overall. So people who downshift and let the clutch out to slow the car down would be disappointed

Lightweight flywheels carry a lot less kinetic energy, this means off throttle the the engine, along with the car, will spin down much quicker. This has held true for every car I've driven with a lightweight flywheel.

Even if you're engaging the clutch to force the car to slow down (which is so cringe, rev match always) once the clutch is engaged the car will slow down much quicker than a stock flywheel.

If the OP is rev matching/heel toeing and using a ton of engine braking day to day, he's going to love a lighter flywheel.

I have these ones, but they are on the expensive side. Clutch cover and disk are made by Exedy, but flywheel is originally manufactured by TODA Racing. The lightweight flywheel sold by TRD is also a re-branded flywheel by TODA.

https://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/pro...eel/fa20-m.jpg

https://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/pro...heel/fa20.html
https://www.trdparts.jp/english/prod...owertrain.html


https://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/pro...ley-fa20-1.jpg

https://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/pro...lley-fa20.html

In older Subaru engines they were saying that you were getting a check engine light if you were changing both (flywheel & crank pulley). The newer engines don't seem to have this problem and I never had a light.

This is what I'm saying. I personally know a lot of people that do this ( which IS cringe!) and it appears to be common practice, so I was suggesting that this effect will be null.