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Advice on storing car for 3 months
Hello guys, I plan to store the car for potentially 3 months. So far I plan to:
-Fill the gas tank -Oil change -Use a trickle charger for those 3 months -Fill up tires My concern is if it’s possible to cause engine damage in anyway while allowing the car to sit for 3months since the engine isn’t going to be lubricated for those 3 months? Corrosion / Rust etc. Also any other things I should be aware about with storing the car for 3 months? Anything that could hurt the car in anyway? I know it’s only 3 months but I don’t know a whole lot when it comes to car components during storage. I appreciate any and all information / insight. Thank so much! |
you don't need to change the oil for 3 months of storage.. oil doesn't degrade that fast in LA lol.. you also don't need to fill the gas up, but that's on you, it won't hurt the car to have a full tank. the trickle charger isn't a bad idea but also not necessary if your battery is relatively new and holds a charge. tires also don't need to be filled up if you have appropriate tire pressure now, it'll be fine. you can't cause any engine damage or hurt the car in any way from parking it for 3 months. i just bought a car that hasn't been run in 2.5 years* and all i did was check the oil level and fired it up to get it on/off the trailer.
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What he said - ^
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Exactly what was said above. I always stored my vehicles the same way for storage and never had an issue. I do however live in Canada and my summer cars are stored for 6 months.
What I do :
That is all. Never had a problem. |
Depending on your storage location, you may also want to cover exhaust and intake openings and place rodent repelling pheromones and/or traps at strategic locations to discourage rodents from entering the storage space and/or approaching the car.
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Depending on where you are going to store, if rodents are possible then moth balls on the top of the engine. They now come in a bag. Filling the gas tank is a good idea as changes in barometric pressure brings new air with water vapor into the tank that will condense at night. Less air in the tank means less to expand and contract. Adding the fuel additive helps keep the water in suspension. If in a private locked garage leaving the hood open means that it is getting light that mice do not like. The battery maintainer is good idea. Make sure that it says maintainer not just trickle charger, the maintainer has smarts that will not boil away the water.
I am a snow bird so storing cars for summer and then winter every year has taught me a lot. |
Disconnect the battery.
Car cover if out side. That's it. Jack the car off the wheels if you want to be a nerd about it. Lol 3 months lol. |
Otherwise known as 'half a winter' to people to the east...
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Dryer sheets are a nice alternative to moth balls.
A Buddy put moth balls inside his car during winter storage. The stink never went away even after years. I put several dryer sheets in the engine compartment, passenger floors and in the trunk. For years my Great White North winter (5 month) storage process; Clean outside and in Fill tank and add Stabil Set tire pressure (32 psi) Connect Battery Tender on a timer for one hour per day Distribute dryer sheets Install cover with extra bunges at front and back (winter wind between houses can be intense) Switch to the boring winter car and start wishing for spring. This process although simple may be overkill for 3 months in toasty LA. |
so what your telling brz owners is after 3-5 months of sitting while oil is all seeped down to the pan that no excessive wear on the pistons and head assembly for the first 30 seconds? i would rather have the motor turn over for 10 seconds to allow the oil to flow before starting. my question is which fuse do i pull to allow no fuel or starting of the motor until its oiled up? i dont want guesses! will flooring the gas pedal stop fuel flowing into the cylinders as to not flood it out. subaru anti flood procedure?
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In the fuse box under the hood, #34 is the fuel pump fuse and #29 is the injector fuse. I usually pull 34 when I am doing stuff with the fuel rails and the car never starts when I crank it to depressurize, but if you wanted to make sure it doesn't start for a second with any residual pressure that may be there, I'd probably pull 29 too. Might pop a code though.
34 F/PMP 20amp Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system 29 EFI (HTR)15amp Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system |
I simply park it and put on a battery maintainer. Nothing else. Usually 4 months during WI winters.
I would definitely do more if it were longer though. |
I haven't touched my car for 3months, was thinking of getting it going for the 1st day of spring if I can find the log book to register the thing!!
If I can't find the document then it won't get going until April!! Oh as for precautions taken, I removed the battery and plugged into a battery charger.. |
The new recommendation is now, peppermint oil. Spray around the tires and in the engine compartment. I just got some so i will try it on the cars when i go north. It should smell a lot better than the moth balls. I might do both in the engine area.
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