Another spark plug thread
 

I know there are a few of these threads floating around but thought I'd post my experience for those prepping to do it for the first time and give some tips. No motor lifting required.

Tools:

• 14mm spark plug socket - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• [optional] 14mm deep non-spark plug socket - This is helpful when installing the new plug. I learned this on my second attempt after struggling to get the spark plug socket off of a newly installed plug when I did not lock the extension into the socket.
• Flexible magnetic dropped socket/bolt grabber - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• [optional]Long ratchet with flexing heads - I bought this for reaching a knock sensor that recently threw a code, it worked perfectly for that and came in handy for this project. The heads on this thing are slim which you really need for a plug job on this car. https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-...het-67994.html
• Rags/towel - This is critical and saved me a ton of time. I highly recommend you wedge rags directly under where you are working so when you drop something you can quickly see/retrieve it. It's time consuming fishing things out from under the engine when you cannot see it.
• 3" extension. Ideally one that you can sacrifice for this job by pulling out the locking ball. This will save you a ton of time and frustration.
• Flat head screw driver - Required to separate the 3" extension from spark plug/deep socket...if you end up locking them together.
• [optional]A socket adapter and reducer - This I learned on my second attempt on the driver side plugs. Using two adapters pretty much gives you half the length of a 3" extension and there is no risk of sockets getting locked together that you cannot undo. If you have a set, connect them in an order where the back one fits into a ratchet and the front one fits into the plug socket.
• Torque wrench - I was only able to use this on 2 of my plugs, the other 2 I just tighted until snug. You need one that does inch/lbs and convert to ft-lbs, or a ft-lb one that goes low enough for the torque spec.

Passenger side:

I did what the other threads/videos suggest. Disconnect the bolts holding the computer and tuck it back.

I started with the rear plug which is the 2nd hardest to work on due to space limitations. My biggest struggle with this was when the socket extension locked into the plug socket, it was very tedious to get them to disconnect using a flat head screw driver. You are pretty much screwed if you cannot disconnect them and you will need to lift your motor to get the socket combo out. It's time consuming and frustrating, but if you have the right size screw driver, and patience, it is doable.

The front plug was not as bad since you have more space to work with.

The passenger side took around 3 hours, this includes time spent retrieving dropped bolts and/or sockets and time spent disconnecting the extension from plug socket.

Driver side:

After removing the injector cover and fuel line bracket I was unable to get the coil pack off of the rear driver plug. I did not have enough space to angle it off and I didn't want to risk breaking it. At this point it's been 4 or so hours and I was getting frustrated and put everything back together and considered bringing it to a shop. I then saw some videos where the motor lifting looked relatively easy so I planned to do that the following weekend.

Saturday comes along and I start taking the cover and fuel line bracket off again. I figured I'd give it another shot before my help arrived. This time I was able to get the coil pack off by lifting it upward instead of backwards. I was then very very patient when working on this plug since you have very little space to maneuver parts into the spark plug hole. I avoided locking the 3" extension into the spark plug socket and was able to get this plug out and new one in before my help arrived. I then did the front one which took probably double the time because I locked the extension to socket twice. A job I thought was going to take a good part of the day only took 2 hours.

This is what 7 year old plugs with 180,000 miles on them look like. My car still ran completely fine but being I am 3x over the suggested replacement mileage I figured I'd do it.

Well, that statement does it - between that and your write up, I've decided never to change the spark plugs in this car

:thanks:

Actually insane you got that much milage off those plugs. How did you drive the car? I drive mine maybe 15-20 miles every day just too and from work / errands. I'm about 13k over on my plug service and was a bit nervous. Getting them done in a week.


Holy fuck

Bubba won’t cut you a deal on labor?

Wow!

I still think it's much easier and quicker to just lift the motor and not have to struggle...

Well, Bubba is a pretty handy fellow, but, after reading up on the procedure for changing out the plugs on this car, I just don't think Bubba is the right man for the job.

:iono:

nice my dude... i did it the same way


I find for the tough driver side plug, i needed:


14mm deep socket
2.3" inch extension
slim profile ratchet (i have the milwaukee one)



BOOM, easy uninstall and replacement (obviously gotta using the rubber hosing with the deep socket to hand thread the plug first, then use the extension)


the key was finding that extension size for me... most standard ones are 3", you need something longer than 2" but less than like 2.7" lol


I am confident that if i use this new extension I got for the other 3 plugs (I left the hardest one for last :P thniking I would "improve" over time).. that this job would be considerably easier and less time consuming

Bought the car new with 4 miles on the clock. I drive 46 miles each way to work so it's mostly highway. I don't beat the hell out of it, but I also don't pamper it. No tracking.

I am guessing with the 2.3" you are able to easily detach when locked to the socket? If I had to do this over again, it'd find 2 1.5" extensions, or take the ball lock out of a 3". This alone would make the job super easy.

If you are prepared from a tools perspective and know what you're getting into then it's easier to do it without lifting the motor. For first timers going into it without a large chest of tools, I'd recommend lifting the motor.

Lifting the motor didn't seem as simple as some make it out to be. You need a good jacking point..I saw some jacking up the motor on the oil pan or header. Stock header may be ok, but definitely not on an aftermarket.

If I had to do it again, a 3" extension with no ball lock, or 2 1.5" extensions would make the job painless.

You can lift from the bell housing just behind the sway bar, pulling the engine this is my go to spot to lift the engine up high enough the mounts are clear of the subframe. When the motor mounts are clear you can push the whole thing from side to side to make more room for the side you are working on. One day I will get annoyed enough to make a video on this, I have had two engines in my car in the last month and don't have the energy to mess with it for a while :bonk:

Masking tape pushed into the locking ball to wedge it in has always worked for me, then just use a pick to get it out when done.

Anybody know how much it cost to have it done at the dealer?



I feel your pain.

My dealer quoted me $400 for plugs.

The 60k service was $500 for plugs, brake fluid, oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, coolant, and tire rotation.