Various symptoms of throw-out bearing issues?
 

Hi, this isn't yet another throw-out bearing failure post. Please hear me out completely...

It seems to be like whenever I go to the dealer for any noise (and the BRZ makes a million unusual noises), they always say it's a bad throw-out bearing. The most recent is a noise that's happening around 5000-6000 rpm. Doesn't always happen at the same RPM. Couldn't capture the noise in any recordings.
Anyway, when I was revving up to 6000 rpm, there was a noise very similar to lash adjuster leakage in Dodge Hemi engines. Sometimes it happens at 5000, sometimes at 6200, or anywhere in between. My Subaru dealership is saying that this is another throw-out bearing issue. I replaced it less than 5000 miles ago, and am having a hard time believing them.
I can't prove to anyone how gentle I am with the clutch & shifting, unfortunately. And probably everyone is gonna assume that I abuse the clutch. They're saying that 5000 rpm is not normal operation for this car so the problem is that I'm asking for too much from the car by revving past 5000 rpm. And he is telling me to drive the car "normally", and the only thing they can do is to change the bearing, out of my pocket. Smells like BS.

Any suggestions?

Sent from a potato

Sounds like bullshit from the dealer. Especially if you paid them to install it last time, they just don't want to eat the labor. 5k on a throwout bearing is nothing. I'd ask him why the motor revs to 7.5k if it wasn't meant to go above 5k.

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Is there a tell-tale test that proves beyond any shadow of doubt whether a throw-out bearing is good or bad?
If I'm correct, a bad throw-out bearing should rattle at all rpms, including idling.

Sent from a potato

So you're saying its a tapping sound?

My symptoms were: goose honks, shh-shh sounds coming from the transmission, rattle when revving, and difficulty getting into gear without grinding.

It's hard to describe. It sounds similar to, but not identical to, valve tapping. Unfortunately my phone or dashcam don't record the noise either.

Dealership did a lubrication pressure test, and say everything looks perfect at hot & cold conditions.

Sent from a potato

Time to go to another dealership. Or an independent shop.

How do you drive one of these things without revving past 5k? FWIW my car rattles at higher rpm if I have the ac on.

Update: apparently their lube pressure test only goes to 3000 rpm ("standard" Subaru procedure!), as with all other Subaru engines. So whether your car has a 7400 redline or 6000... they only test until 3000 rpm.
I'm definitely talking to a different dealership in the area.
I have never had to deal with this much bullshit in one day!

Sent from a potato

That’s one oart if car that doesn’t like “gentle”. It is under stress when the clutch pedal is pushed. The longer time spend there the more it wears. Shift fast with rev matching reduces wear.

Got the car back yesterday. There is nothing that remotely indicates that my throw-out bearing is bad. Pressed the clutch a few times while idling and at 2000 rpm... smooth as butter!
I guess I shouldn't expect any sense from someone who says 5000rpm on a BRZ engine is "not operational".

Sent from a potato

A question about throw-out bearing....

If the bearing is bad, should I expect a rattling noise when the clutch is pressed in... or when it's fully out?



Sent from a potato

A bad TOB could make noise regardless of whether or not the clutch is pushed it. Then a bad TOB could make a different noise when the clutch is pushed in or not make a noise.

Pesky little devil ain't it?

:(

It's kinda strange. It doesn't happen all the time. And it happens anywhere between 5000 and 6200 rpm. Even the slightest push of the clutch, the noise goes away. It doesn't make any sense at all!

Sent from a potato

You will know when your TOB is toast... LoL. Mine shit the bed at the track and somehow I got home. No freaking clue how I made over 150miles home from the track in traffic...

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