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Where can I find door speaker mounts/brackets?
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these look to fit.
crutchfield is really conservative. when they say that something fits, it usually does. though i haven't run across anyone that has used these brackets. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SAT...-Brackets.html otherwise, you can make your own out of any malleable material. i've watched one youtube car audio guy that uses 1/2" thick black ABS sheets for any adapters/bracketry he needs. other guys will use plywood of varying extreme degrees of moisture resistance-- which appears to be directly related to how paranoid they are someone's tapped their phones... i generally use HDF or MDF, in 3/4"(or closest) thickness, and then violently attack it with a router and a sharp bit (ok, i trace the outside perimeter oem speaker pattern onto it, and then trace the cut-out size of the replacement within that). i always follow up by painting it with whatever spray paint i have nearest to sort of seal it from the elements, though i usually try to use black paint so it doesn't stand out behind the door card. |
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I can vouch for these brackets. I bought them from Crutchfield. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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https://legacygt.com/forums/showthre...rs-175931.html I might try and tackle the cutting board procedure |
I bought specific ones from Japan...
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are japanese brackets made of titanium or something that's inherently less prone to vibration, but sound better?
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Only JDM for me.
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Doesn't help that everybody thinks JDM means something totally different than it really means either. |
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If you make your own brackets use .75" MDF for the doors and .25" MDF for the tweeters, both are available in 2'x4' sheets at home depot. Use a jig saw to cut them out. OE parts are very easy to trace. This platform is super easy to work on. If you are into car audio, learn to make your own brackets. Also, your sound will greatly improve if you use some thick foam padding and ensure a lot of interference between the foam and the extrusions on the door panel.
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