(TURBO) What makes/supports 500-550HP reliably for our cars?
 

Hi guys as the thread title describes, this thread will be helpful to those who are interested in knowing just because and also for others who are planning to perform the same as myself.

I’m building my IAG Stage 1 12.5:1 CP rated to 550HP on my Manual
2013 Toyota gts86.

I have the following:
Have also attached an image of further parts that have been installed.
Tuned through Ecutek RaceRom Upgrade, no dynotune.
Garret Gtx2860RS (good for 360HP)
Aeroflow Turbo Blanket
Turbosmart IWG-75
Turbosmart Actuator GT28/60 7
Turbosmart BOV Plumb Black
AEM Boost solenoid, used to run Turbosmart WG Tee
K&N Pod Filter
Direct Clutch Stage 2
Lightweight flywheel with the clutch diameter custom made
AEM Tru Boost Gauge
4bar map sensor
Catless exhaust straight through with Invidia N1 catback and 1 Resonator
Cusco catch can
Ultrex Front Strut Bar

Potenza tires on the back 18” GT Hussle 18x8.5 5x95 +40, stockies on front

Parts I have but not fitted:
1200cc Port Injectors

Parts I haven’t bought yet:
Avo oil cooler
Walbro or DW Fuel Pump
Flex Fuel Kit

I am tuned through Ecutek with MRT Performance being the master tuner..

I may have forgotten one of two things but this is what I can think of at the top of my head so I suppose well go from there.
I have completed other mods but they’re aesthetic that aren’t performance supported.

Can you recommend what parts will be able to handle around 500hp for my 86 reliably as i’ve got the engine for it. She’s probably pushing 250-280hp currently but don’t know for sure.

For example,
-fuel pump
-fuel injectors
-rear axle
-oil cooler
-upgraded intercooler
-upgraded radiator?
-catch can
-Flex Fuel
-limitations to the manual gearbox?
-upgraded actuator?
-upgraded bov?

Can’t forget to say Thankyou in advance to all the future helpful replies.

.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

For starters you should get a stronger Gearbox for 500hp

Enviado desde mi HD1900 mediante Tapatalk

From an engineering point of view, you should probably reconsider a running a system that goes to >90% of your maximum capability if you want reliability/longevity.

^This. And keep in mind that the IAG HP ratings are for BHP, not WHP. Not sure which you are shooting for.

It will never be reliable, but the first step is ditching e-tuning and finding a dyno tuner. get a Reimax oil pump gear as well

I'm at 405whp on 10.5 psi e85 on my precision 5558 ball bearing turbo, full boost at 3300 rpm. I would recommend, or use the 5858.

As stated, gearbox for sure. Consider a CD009 swap. Maybe rear axles.

Id be really impressed if you could make over 500HP reliably.

Engine and trans swap.
Even fully built blocks are lucky to be “reliable” (depends on your definition of reliable) at 450whp. And even then most aren’t that reliable above 400whp.

Either change your goal to around 400whp.
Or engine swap.

What fuel will you be using?

I wouldn't call any 500+hp FA20 reliable, until proven otherwise.

He has flex fuel, so probably E85. I don't think methanol is as easy to get in Australia.

@FRS Justin 710whp... I don't know what his setup is or if he would be willing to share, but I thought he has a closed deck setup. I'm thinking lower compression too, but I can't remember.

I'm sure it depends on how often the car sees that 500+whp for reliability. If it was just a highway queen then maybe it would be fine with a good setup.

Maybe someone can chime in who is a tuner, but what are the limits of knock/detonation resistance for E85 at 12.5:1 compression? Should the OP consider going with a much lower compression to make reliable power on E85?

@Pheonix_gts86 What made you stay with 12.5:1 compression? Just for reference, the new Porsche Turbo makes 640hp with a compression of 8.7:1, and it seemed to be necessary to drop compression from 9.8:1 to do it reliably on pump gas. Maybe there is a lot of wiggle room with E85, but if the effective compression gets too high then maybe that won't be reliable.

Lower the compression to either 9/9.5/10/10.5 to 1
Get a stronger transmission if you plan to actually use the power.
You will just spin... With those tires, no grip, the power is useless. Grippier tires will strip the trans, so upgrade the transmission and get grippier tires.
Again, that much power without being able to put it to the road is useless and reckless.
You will want a vented hood too for heat control. Upgraded radiator and oil cooler also help a lot.