Of course but its all about your budget. If money was tight the Gruppe-s OFT combo I coulda been happy with

Mainly because I moved to CA and didn't want to deal with a header in this state. But yeah, to me it was the most noticeable because it did the best job of flattening out the torque dip.

In my experience, any header that changes the shape of the torque curve will be the most noticeable (as opposed to something like E85 that keeps the stock torque curve shape & dip, but bumps it up uniformly).

We have many young drivers coming to our dyno expecting great numbers improvements after spending a lot of money. We let them know that the butt dyno feels improvement in direct relation to the money spent, and is not calibrated the same as our dyno.

FlexFuel FTW!!

The difference in the Ace header and something like a Gruppe-S header may show up on a dyno chart but nobody here is feeling a few hp in their butt dynos no matter what their wallets tell them.
Adding an uncatted header like that Gruppe-S and the OFT tune was for sure noticeable and spending almost 3x the price for the Ace and Ecutek is just for people chasing numbers or online bragging rights.

If the tune is good you will feel a difference especially on the highway after the tune I noticed I didn't have to downshift as much on the free way car felt more responsive ane less dull it's not drastic but noticeable and worth the time and money.

Just make sure to buy quality parts and don't buy twice.

Buy the parts that make sense to you. If you want to go all out and buy the best header made, do it. If you would rather have 85-90% in the power department and save that money for somewhere else, do that. Ultimately it's your choice.

I've driven a car with OFT and a JDL UEL header and for sure could notice it. Was it neck breaking, no. It did smooth out the powerband very much.

My car has stock power and tune.

This car needs down shifting during deceleration if acceleration is intended right after that so that the engine carries the momentum and stays in the power rpm band. I see comments about smoothing out the power band, no down shifting necessary, complaints about torque dip, etc. I have a supercharged FRS and it still needs down shifting with 50% more power and no torque dip. This car simply cannot accelerate until engine revs over 3000 rpm. If the engine is below 3000 rpm and driver intends to accelerate, down shifting is a must. There is no way around, no tune or header can fix this. Only help could be turbo with low end torque but with the high risk of blown out engine.

Header and tune are worth it. Buy what you can afford. I always upgrade one thing at a time. First was panel filter, not sure I felt anything. Then I went with a tune first. Not much difference at low RPM but much better at higher speeds on the highway when downshifting and passing. So $500 bucks for oft and it was a small upgrade. Then did jdl catless header and catted/resonated front pipe. This flattened torque curve as people say and you can feel it. Next I went with Crawford blocks which seemed to help at higher speeds as well. Done modding, nothing left to do power wise other than E85 or FI, which I have no plans for. I like my MPG on my 78 mile round trip commute.

I also own an 04 WRX that I have been modding since May 2003. Did the same thing one mod at a time. I can tell you that going stage 1 was very noticeable. Then stage 2 header and tune was a huge bump in power. Turning up boost works, duh. It’s why we love turbo cars.

Some perspective, I drive both every week. My WRX has many suspension mods and turns on rails, I have it set up as a very neutral car, no understeer with the rear coming around very nicely. I did not think I could have more fun in the twisties, but the BRZ with the ass hanging out a bit is more fun, maybe not safer or faster but definitely more fun.

In straight pulls, the WRX takes it easily, but the BRZ hooks up too, you just need higher rpm. I have to admit it does sound nice when I do it. Both cars you are breaking laws quick.

Of course you need to down shift. I don't think anyone said otherwise.

It does reduce the torque dip/crater therefore smoothing out the powerband.

How else would you describe it?

I don't think anyone is talking about mashing the gas pedal and expecting some kind of miracle. I read it as not as much power loss when doing regular driving.

:iono:

I you down shift when decelerating you don't fall in the torque dip when accelerating next. If you are driving above the torque dip and not expecting acceleration just by mashing the gas pedal, torque dip is not a big problem. And, yes, somebody posted about avoiding down shift (see above). Apparently, some expect that miracle.

One thing that needs to be said here that many people with the header and tune don't want to say is that this car is still slow and will stay slow with any mod short of FI.

The OP is asking "will I feel it"? And my answer is "no". Header and tune will not help making this car fast. Is there a 0-60 improvement posted that I missed? But modifying the car is fun as a hobby. I can't argue with that.

You can feel header and tune. But nothing compared to a turbo car. Is it worth the money, I can see both arguments. Modding is a bit of a disease, but I feel that I am pretty objective. For example, I would not do Crawford blocks again too much work for a small benefit.

One example is after my header and tune I was chirping all season tires a lot more than stock. Some small evidence of more torque. Not scientifically proven either. 😊

Put on more than one header, and you'll definitely feel something. Likely a bunch clunking and banging, and scraping...

I'm going to say something that sometimes isn't popular.

Sound is an important factor in the way a car seems to respond. A great sounding car will feel faster than a quiet one when it isn't. Its one of the reasons the car was designed with intake noise piped right into the cabin, to make the car feel faster than it really is.

A lot of people balk at the idea of buying exhaust parts just for the sound. A lot of people get hung up on dyno numbers.

I'm the opposite. I have no problem spending money on something completely cosmetic that adds to the enjoyment of my car. Putting the Corsa exhaust on my car made it feel faster even though I know intellectually that it added no horsepower or "throttle response" (which is 99% of the time complete bullshit).

So my suggestion:

If you're looking to wring out every bit of power for better track times, go for whatever will give you the best performance.

But if you're just talking about street use, take a good listen to the headers that interest you. Sure, look at their dyno numbers, but also consider the one that sounds the best to your ears. You will likely find that the better sounding option will be more enjoyable to drive even if the numbers don't support it.

Then decide for yourself whether the difference in price is worth what you'll gain on either metric.