Turbo supporting mods
 

I'm buying a Greddy T518Z turbo within the next couple of weeks and I just want someone to look over my list of supporting mods I have so far and to let me know if there's anything else I should buy. This will only be for daily driving so I won't be upgrading fuel components and I'm not running a BOV.

So far I have:
T518Z turbo kit
3bar map sensor
oil pan with pre-welded oil return fitting
aftermarket crash bar
boost gauge
oil catch can

Anything missing that you would recommend? is it necessary to have an oil temp gauge or oil cooler if I'm running <10psi? what about a turbo blanket and wrapping my headers?

Thanks

Oil cooler and oil temp gauge should be stock requirements for any of these cars getting abuse. Afr gauge isn't a bad addition and neither is either blanket or preferably ceramic coating.

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STI PCV Valve, the stock one is not designed for boost. The STI one has a check valve that will seal off and keep you from pushing boost into your crank case.

He already has a catch can, likely will delete it.

Why no BOV?

See this post

https://www.reddit.com/r/ft86/commen...car_read_this/

See this thread

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=20

Better question is, why BOV? It's not a "value add" in any meaningful way in this case.

Cheap insurance against compressor surge and better response.

What's wrong with compressor surge, and how does a BOV improve response?

On-throttle compressor surge is a major issue, and will wreak havok; a BOV won't address this in any way.

A BOV releases pressure, meaning you have to re-pressurize more between shifts, or during modulation.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surge_in_compressors

Depending on the extent of the surge, pressure can stop or reverse flow. Wouldn’t it be better to have a compressor that is continuing to spin instead of not spinning or reverse spinning? It is like the difference in heal-toeing to maintain rpms as high as possible versus dropping rpms to idle or going in reverse; the goal is a seamless transition.

Your turbo will not/can not spin backwards.

Incorrect. you will not reverse the flow of a turbo and lift off surge is completely harmless. BOV's will not prevent spool down unless your shifts are fantastically fast (and may even slow it down by releasing more pressure than would otherwise escape the turbo between shifts). only reason to have a bov is if you are tracking the car.

back to the topic at hand, i recently did a turbo build. you can find it in this forum.
depending on climate, unless you are going to track this car an oil cooler is not necessary, but wont hurt. I live in queensland australia which averages about 33 degrees C this time of year (about 91 F) and my temps rarely exceed 100 (210 F) unless im going balls to the wall for extended periods (which you shouldnt be doing on the road anyway)
Oil pan is quite easy to do yourself, we ended up brazing our fitting in in the end. all we needed was a blow torch and some brass braze.

as for supporting mods, if you are just going for wastegate pressure no need to touch fuel yet, and stock clutch should be ok for anything below 8 PSI. there really is not much needed to FI these cars when you are only targeting ~300hp.

as for sensors, we ended up monitoring AFR, boost, oil temp and oil pressure.

I would simply suggest that what ever you choose to get/do, do it with good quality components. good gaskets, brass oil feed adapters, lines, fittings, oil, etc.

I have a Forester heat exchanger, more to get oil temps up faster so I can thrash it sooner.

for maximum tsurururu. I'm not really here to have a debate on whether or not it's healthy not to have a bov. I'm by no means an automotive expert but I did a lot of reading and research and I'm deciding not to run one

thanks for the replies