Motor is Blown, how do I proceed?
 

Sup 86 Fam,

The day has come that my Turbo'd BRZ bit the dust and from my understanding, I have thrown/snapped/bent a rod. I did not create a window in my block if anyone is wondering.

I was shifting between 2-3 gear at high RMPs and after seeing all lights on my dash come on, i Pulled over and heard what has been confirmed to be a bad rod.

This was totally my fault because I was running 10-40 weight oil and the oil had not been warmed up when i decided to do a dig. Moving on.

My question is what do i do now?

I drove the car about half a mile after the rod had snapped, so I have been told that I need to drain the oil and look for metal shavings. Can someone please add some context for me on where to look, what to be looking for, and what all do I need to diagnose before moving on to a new build? If metal got into the oil, is my turbo ruined?

Next, I am brand new to messing with engines, built engines, engine swaps, and/or internals. Can you guys/girls lay out some options for me to consider before deciding on a new motor, rebuilding this motor, and/or which route/manufacturer to be looking into?

Thank you all for your help thus far, looking forward to diving in!

Also, if this thread needs to be moved, could a moderator please do so into the correct section of the forum?

Video of my car starting up right after the motor blew.

https://youtu.be/RrptpRGKPKA

Cheapest option would be to pick up a new motor for around $2.8k and drop it in, reinstall turbo kit.

https://leecparts.com/products/2016-...eafdd19c&_ss=r

Buy through that link or source one out on Facebook or something. Buy 2013-2016 engines only unless you want to tinker with different wiring harnesses to get 2017+ engines to work.

You can purchase a built short block through IAG or something and reuse your long block if it's still good.

Here's another engine with 41k miles for 2.5k https://www.facebook.com/groups/FRSB...15836021880944

Best option is to buy a new block from Subaru. They're pretty cheap and guaranteed to be put together well.

You could buy a used long block and sell the extra parts to recoup a bit of the cost too.

Do not go with a built block if you can avoid it- built does not mean more reliable.

It is hard to know what is damaged and to what extent.

Your turbo could be rebuilt. If it was a rod and just metal in the oil then the central oil passage could just need cleaning. If there was damage in the chamber then your exhaust fins could have been damaged. Again, rebuild or replace.

The engine needs to get pulled, cleaned and evaluated for damage. Only then will you know if it is salvageable. Find out the price of a disassembly and inspection. See if a builder is willing to discount an inspection if you do a build. Any metal in the oil will go everywhere in the motor and damage all surfaces. In that case, it might be cheaper and safer to just get a new motor.

FYI, I doubt 10w40 is what caused the damage. What type of numbers are you putting down?

Neither is being boosted with a turbo (depending on his setup).

A new long block is probably more expensive than a used complete low-mileage engine.

Is that just because of not trusting who built it?

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I agree about the cost- I'd never advise a new long block, the heads can be hot tanked and put on a new short block. Totally up to him if he wants to try a different used engine. Certainly cost effective. I doubt he's going to remove his turbo; I certainly wouldn't after having one


There is that, my main concern would be that the warm up cycle for the engine becomes much more important (tolerances and ring gap will be different and more sensitive than OEM), the build quality of the aftermarket components also may not be as tried and true. I've seen several IAG blocks have ringland and bearing issues on WRX and STI (fa20dit included) because of something not being perfect.
I've never seen an OEM engine come back with bearing or ringland issues.

For what it's worth, my engine is a used eBay motor and I'm turbo, no issues in 6k miles so far and I've given it hell.

i had the same and i proceeded buying a stock new short block, and put forged Brian Crower rods, cosworth gaskets and gsc valve springs

Mechanic had to clean everything in the heads, and "rectify" the heads and valve

i also broke and had to change: 2 intake valves, 4 rocker arms, 1 intake camshaft, the 2 timing belts, the guides of the chains, the upper oil pan, and lot s of orings
To take advantage of engine down, i replaced spark plugs, fuel injectors orings


In US you have IAG that make "cheap" block, i would go that route if i was there, in Europe a forged block would cost too much, but the words of Darkpirate make me think, and overall i m happy with my choice

step 1, buy an LS7....

Isn’t it safe to assume most people with an IAG blocks are modified or more modified or are driving more aggressively in more extreme conditions than people with stock blocks? I don’t know if the comparison is fair. Also, you can specify the ring gap with the builder.

https://www.comeanddriveit.com/engin...ngland-failure

There's no right or wrong answer here, it's an opinion. I'm just giving reference from my own accounts; the people with the built blocks had obvious build issues even before break-in was done.
The ring gap piece is true, but would he know enough to request something specific, or go with "whatever is recommended"?

Again, not arguing, I know you're not wrong; but I wouldn't let someone assume that a "built" engine has any clause in its purpose that stipulates it'll be MORE reliable. Only stronger

I’m running a Precision 5858 on spring pressure and made 330whp. I was close to redline in 2nd gear and shifted pretty quick into 3rd. Right as I let off the clutch, the cluster lit up on me. I had the music up loud, so I couldn’t actually hear what happened until after the fact!

The debate on a built motor is one that is exactly that, a huge debate! I have dozens upon dozens of friends who have had more problems with their built block set ups to know the incredibly huge risk of going that route.

I had flex fuel ready to go on the car when it blew while running 93 octane.

I am a weekend DIYer that has never messed with engines, so this whole process scares the daylights out of me from a stress and financial aspect.

I have come this far though, can’t stop now haha!

Thanks for the replies guys! Love the info!