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My RPMs have been idling at 500

I've had my FRS since 2014 and my RPMs have always idled between 1000 and 2500 when I'm at a stop. Recently its been at 500 and the car shakes as if its about to stall.
I recently installed the Airlift 3p and installed new studs all the way around, with school and clinicals I didn't drive my car for about a week and a half while everything was slowly installed. Yesterday I took my car for a drive, I turned the car on and the ABS light was on, as well as check engine and traction lights. I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes but nothing changed. I took it for a drive and the brakes felt normal. I couldn't get above 4000 RPMS in first and second gear. Autozone pulled the codes and the only one showing was the ABS sensor.
Then as I was in the Walmart parking lot, I came to a stop and the car just shut off. It turned back on without any trouble. Today I started the car up after going to visit my mom and it had a little bit of trouble starting, but that might be because it sat in the cold weather for a bit.
Does anyone have any words of wisdom or advice here? I'm not a pro at this stuff and I'm at a loss here. I don't want to drive my car to school in fear it'll stall again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaily (Post 3298112)

I've had my FRS since 2014 and my RPMs have always idled between 1000 and 2500 when I'm at a stop. Recently its been at 500 and the car shakes as if its about to stall.

I recently installed the Airlift 3p and installed new studs all the way around, with school and clinicals I didn't drive my car for about a week and a half while everything was slowly installed. Yesterday I took my car for a drive, I turned the car on and the ABS light was on, as well as check engine and traction lights. I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes but nothing changed. I took it for a drive and the brakes felt normal. I couldn't get above 4000 RPMS in first and second gear. Autozone pulled the codes and the only one showing was the ABS sensor.

Then as I was in the Walmart parking lot, I came to a stop and the car just shut off. It turned back on without any trouble. Today I started the car up after going to visit my mom and it had a little bit of trouble starting, but that might be because it sat in the cold weather for a bit.

Does anyone have any words of wisdom or advice here? I'm not a pro at this stuff and I'm at a loss here. I don't want to drive my car to school in fear it'll stall again.

Yeah for one buy a cheap bluetooth OBD-II scanner and the Torque Pro app so you can scan codes yourself. The scanner is $20 and the app is $5. Also if you really aren't getting CEL lights at all and it's idling like that I would check your air filter and run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner the next time you go to fill it with gas. If that doesn't work (fuel injector cleaner takes almost burning that entire tank of gas you added it to work) then maybe spark plugs. I have a feeling though if I had my scanner and hooked it up to your car I would get a code off it. Maybe Autozone couldn't read it because you reset it by unplugging the battery? I'm tired of reading guys doing this. Read the dang code first and if you had a scanner you could erase it with the scanner instead of unplugging your battery. You can even email it to yourself! It makes diagnosis so much easier. Modern cars have a computer to tell you what is wrong with it and you go erasing that info..

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaily (Post 3298112)

I've had my FRS since 2014 …

Does anyone have any words of wisdom or advice here? I'm not a pro at this stuff and I'm at a loss here. I don't want to drive my car to school in fear it'll stall again.

Hi Kaily.

Too bad your car is acting up - :(

I recommend that you take your car into a shop (or dealer) and have them figure out what's wrong with it and fix it.

pa-pa humfrz

Wasn’t there a recall long ago for symptoms like described where new codes were flashed to Ecu? Though I have no idea about the airlift thing

first things first, the only area that anything you did interacts with the vehicle is the electrical system. i'd pull the air lift system fuses first, and then take it for another drive. it shouldn't affect anything, but is the easiest way to verify that before looking elsewhere.

did you and/or a buddy install the system, or did a shop? if it was a shop, bring it back and calmly explain the deal to come to a resolution to get the car worked on somewhere-- give them a chance first, but don't be a screamer... the next culprit is that something oem got knocked loose, or pinched during the air lift installation.

and the last culprit is that it has nothing to do with the air lift system, and it's something else entirely.

@Kaily an ABS sensor code will throw the car in limp mode. Also might try to stall under braking. Happened to me when I had a broken abs sensor for a week, car barely wants to run under that condition.

Almost makes me think carrying a spare ABS sensor for any wheel job might be a good idea.

^good point!! check the wheel ABS sensors to have been knocked around during the air ride strut installs, specifically, the strut that the ABS code popped up for.

While 500 is a bit low, 1000 - 2500 RPM on a wamed up car at idle is not normal either.
Normal is 650 to 800 I believe, depending on AC

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3298239)

Thank you for the advice, we tapped into the windshield wiper fuse for the airlift system. To be honest that's been randomly acting up too, the wipers come on at random and I can't do anything to turn them off..

A couple of friends helped install the system since I didn't know anything about how to install it and they've installed it a few times on cars they've had.

I'll take another look at everything this weekend.

Quote:

Originally Posted by radroach (Post 3298241)

Yea it feels like the car just wants to quit, I bet the sensor got damaged with all the hammering from changing out the studs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NARFALICIOUS (Post 3298253)

While 500 is a bit low, 1000 - 2500 RPM on a wamed up car at idle is not normal either.
Normal is 650 to 800 I believe, depending on AC

My car seemed to have a dramatic cold start at about 2500, then it usually calmed down to about 1000.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaily (Post 3298254)

this is seriously very concerning. and why the windshield wiper fuse, of all the fuses to pick from?!? a proper install of any device shouldn't result in electrical issues.

*my internal voice is now screaming at me to RUN AWAY, RUN AWAY VERY FAST AND DON'T LOOK BACK*

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaily (Post 3298254)

Thank you for the advice, we tapped into the windshield wiper fuse for the airlift system. To be honest that's been randomly acting up too, the wipers come on at random and I can't do anything to turn them off..

A couple of friends helped install the system since I didn't know anything about how to install it and they've installed it a few times on cars they've had.

I'll take another look at everything this weekend.

This may be the problem - :confused0068:

humfrz

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3298261)

Quote:

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 3298262)

This may be the problem - :confused0068:

humfrz

The windshield wiper fuse was used because for some reason literally every other fuse we tried wouldn't work--we tried all the fuses for things that should have been off if the car was off but the airlift system would be turn on even thought they keys are not in the car and the car is not on..